Alaska Recap Two: The Parks

The opportunity to visit units of the National Park Service started in Nebraska. The two we stopped at in Northern Nebraska were a bit of a disappointment - the first was in flood stage so very little was open and we viewed the river from a high bluff at Mulberry Bend. The second one included an historic bridge that we made our target for the park, it was underwhelming. In fact, it looked like an ordinary bridge and the superstructure that might have been interesting was not really visible from above and there were no paths to get under the bridge. However, from that point on, the parks were excellent. We visited 31 parks for the first time and revisited an additional eight including Olympic, Yellowstone and Grand Teton. Some were challenging, Wrangell-St Elias requires a drive of 59.8 miles on a pitted, bumpy, dusty, bone shaking gravel road, a walk across a long bridge over rapids and a five mile ride in a van to arrive. Lake Clark, Katmai are accessed by air in little four passenger planes, Inupiat Heritage Center requires long commercial flights to the edge of the Arctic Ocean and others, Glacier Bay, Kenai Fjords & San Juan Islands you take ships while Sitka we used both - three plane rides and a ferry. It was good to drive to most of those in the lower 48. We enjoyed more than we expected most every park, save the two in Nebraska and, perhaps, the Agate Fossil Bed and the Hagerman Fossil Beds. Simply not that interested in the fossils. We were touched by the Minidoka Park and the birthplace of George Washington Carver. Pea Ridge, Whitman Mission, Wind Cave and Fort Union were surprising. The Alaska parks are simply breathtaking and magnificent. We now are at 253 of the 419 parks.

The parks in order as we visited:

Missouri National Recreation new

Niobrara National Scenic River new

Wind Cave NP new

Mount Rushmore NM

Jewel Cave NM new

Badlands NP

Minute Man NHS new

Devils Tower NM new

Theodore Roosevelt NP, South and North units

Knife River Indian Villages NHS new

Fort Union NHS new

Klondike Gold Rush NHP  Skagway and Seattle units new

Glacier Bay NP new

Sitka NHP new

Wrangell St. Elias NP, North and South units new

Denali NP new

Katmai NP new

Kenai Fjords NP new

Inupiat Heritage Center new

Lake Clark NP new

Olympic NP

San Juan Islands NHS new

Whitman Mission NHP new

Nez Perce NHP (four of 38 sites) new

Hagerman Fossil Beds NM new

Minidoka NHS new

Craters of the Moon NM new

Grand Teton NP

John D Rockefeller Memorial Parkway

Yellowstone NP

Agate Fossil Beds NM new

Nicodemus NHS new

Fort Scott NHS new

George Washington Carver NHP new

Pea Ridge NMP new

Buffalo National River new

Wilson’s Creek NB new

Ozark NSR, Big Springs and Alley Springs new

Natchez Trace Parkway

Looking down from the top of the stamping mill at Kennecott - 15 stories high, in Wrangell St Elias NP

Looking Up, the first photo was taken from that rickety open platform on the top of the mill.

Alaska Recap One, the Moose

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Good, I have the whole post, this is how things ought to be done. 

Much news to share with my vast and rapt audience. I’m afraid one item is going to be sad. The most disappointing news is that I must suspend my Presidential Campaign. I know that hundreds of you are staring aghast at your screen right now, maybe through tears. It was not a choice but forced upon me by an inadequate system. It appears, even given my wildly popular campaign and the clear choice of most thinking voters, that I am NOT on the ballot in ANY state. Who knew of such a thing. So, my campaign strategist team is looking into this farce but so far we see no way forward for 2020. Look out 2024 cause we will be prepared. I will still campaign in the extreme south this year sowing the ground for our next effort. 

The campaign suspension notice like the announcement made in the Bull Moose Party tradition, on the rails.

I’m glad to get that out of the way to bring you exciting, wonderful news. 

First, I have found my primary calling. Not driving planes, trains or automobiles nor medicine nor rodeo - in fact all of these are among my most outstanding abilities yet there is one place I excel to the stratosphere, food - we are opening up a cafe! Yes, Cup & Cones Cafe will soon be a reality.  We will serve excellent, creative lattes, great, unique ice cream and light fare for any appetite. And we will not leave out the entire Moose and other antlered creatures population like other restaurants. We will have lily root soup, light grass salads and maple/endive ice cream, for example. Our first Cup & Cones Cafe will be in Denali. Our second is slated for Raleigh. (Don’t tell anyone but the winter in Denali is a bit harsh, the summer is Raleigh is a bit warmish.) Franchises are in the works.  

Which brings me to the best of the news, Ms McFinley and I are getting married. I know, picking a perfect wife is one of my most outstanding qualities. She is the “we” in the cafe by the way.

I know you have a lot of questions. 

1. Do I get to attend the wedding? 

You will, of course, all be invited to the wedding of the century once we set a date. 

2. Will you have birch ice cream

You did not need to ask that question. 

3. What happens to Brr Ice?

He missed the open range so we made him our grill chef.

4. Will you still travel?

Sadly, I still have no license so, until MOOSE RIGHTS I will travel with the guides but my focus will be to explore new concepts for the cafe, new flavors for ice cream and latte tastings. The driver is not too competent but he does eat and can find ice cream. 

I’m off to Denali and the lovely Ms McKinley. I will check back in a few weeks. Meanwhile lots of work to do, things to organize, recipes to test, gallons of ice cream for evaluation and a wedding to plan. Fortunately all these things are among my most outstanding qualities. 

A highlight of the summer -sailing across the sea in this small flower boat.

Here I am doing field work for the new tastes Cup & Cone Cafe will be using.

Emerge

I so enjoyed walking in the forest like this one, no path, no agenda just a hush and soft footfalls. The beauty of the forest - growth and renewal.

“Dear brothers and sisters, we can’t help but thank God for you, because your faith is flourishing and your love for one another is growing.” 2 Thessalonians 1:3 NLT

Best Case

This might be our best case scenario as the bills from this trip are tallied. In a small town north of Haines, AK,

Sea, Forest, Fog, Ice

This was a quiet moment on the trip to see Columbia Glacier. Simple.

Next week on Monday is Cadillac’s day, Even Bigger Announcements.

Meanwhile, we are still unpacking, setting up things that needed attention and I hope back on the photos soon. I have not done any since I returned. Anxious.

Thanks

Many of you wrote and encouraged us on our long trip, some of you provided great insight and advice on the way, instruction on shooting pictures and places to see or to eat. We are appreciative of your time and thankful for what you added to our trip. I also appreciate you taking the time to look at this site. I loved the opportunity to share the wonders we were seeing. Over the next few weeks photos from this trip will still be coming. I have a lot not edited (most barely looked at among the 17, 815 images I have shot). So from Cindy and me, thanks.

There were lots of mutual photos, I take yours with your camera and hand you mine for ours. This one was at the Tea House above Lake Louise.

Alaska Journey Day 121, 122, 123, 124

Saturday, Sunday, Monday HOME Day

Saturday was a low key bit of rest, clean up trailer and short drive on the Natchez Parkway. 

Sunday we went to church at Wellspring in Spring Hill TN, excellent church! Then on to the farmers market in Nashville, where we found Jeni’s, City-Farm coffee and Delta61 for lunch, then to the nice new museum across the lot for the afternoon. On the way back to the trailer we stopped at Loveless Cafe for dinner. Terrific stop. I did mention the ice cream at Jeni’s but failed to tell you I had a cone twice! Atlantic Beach Pie is an amazing flavor and I think, trumpet roll, I’ll move Jeni’s to number one on the Ice Cream Hit Parade, followed by Salt & Straw in Seattle and Cows in Canada. What a shake up in the ice cream world. 

Monday was get a couple issues on the trailer fixed, general check up at about 50,000 miles and drool over the newer immense:) 22 foot trailer. We were on our way by 6:30 but did not make Monday’s goal. We ended at a Cracker Barrel in Crossville. Many thanks to the Oliver team led by Jason and Ritchie - they went way beyond the norm to ensure we were safely on our way. Nice to deal with people who care about their product and their customers. 

Tuesday after breakfast at CB, we stopped in Knoxville to visit our dear friend Jill. Then on to Virginia where we were able to catch up a bit on Waypoint with Paul. Finally after dinner and two hundred more miles, we were back with Geof, Laura, Kellen, Addie and Ellary whom we missed a great deal. They had our house stocked and perfect. 

Thus endth the telling of the Travel Tale to Alaska. 

Stay tuned over the next few days to find out:

Stats, Summaries, Places & People, Food, Details and the next chapter of the Moose. 

Sun Set on the most amazing four month journey. Thanks for being a part of it with us. Blessings.

Alaska Journey Day 120

Crossing the Mississippi Day 

We went west and north a bit before we set out to cross the Mississippi to see a different part of the Ozark Riverways. The mill at Alley Springs was worth the short drive just to see the crystal clear water that flows from underground springs at the rate of 81 millions galleons a day. The red, three story mill set off like a jewel against the blue and turquoise waters was a bonus. Then with a short stop at New Madrid, where we viewed the river from a raised platform, we scooted all the way to Hohenwald where we set up outside the Oliver office for the night. Actually three nights as we have an appointment here on Monday. We are going to explore some of the Natchez Trace tomorrow. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

We barely stopped. I can’t give a speech from a moving truck. No ice cream for more days. No lattes for miles and miles. No letters from Ms. McKinley. Going to bed didn’t really help. I guess we are going to land tonight so I will have time tomorrow to campaign in Tennessee. And I will absolutely need ice cream, lattes and, since I have been so deprived, a couple of donuts to sooth my hurt feelings. And a cookie. Or two.

Alley Mill built in 1894 at Alley Springs.

Alaska Journey Day 119

Last Two New Parks Day 

In the morning we went to Wilson Creek NBP (park 252). I thought I knew most of the major battlefields of the Civil War. In fact, I was excited to go to Pea Ridge because I believed that was the “last one” I needed to see. Not true. I did not even know about this place until last month and it is a large, really well preserved and very well administrated park in south Missouri. A real treat this morning was to visit this place. We then drove west along US 60 East, a familiar road in an unfamiliar place. Our stop was another Wild and Scenic River, the Ozark (park 253). We found a decent US Forest Service campground for $5 and then drove to an old CCC built resort that is sadly fading. There are plans to restore it but it is a shame it got to this state. Lots of springs in this area.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

No Moose for miles. No speeches to give cause no people for miles. No ice cream for days. No lattes for miles. No letters from Ms. McKinley. I’m going to bed wake me when life as I know it returns. 

Ray House at Wilson Creek Battlefield. It is 75% original, used as a field hospital and where a dying Union general was brought.

Alaska Journey Day 118

Didn’t Start Out Well Day 

The plan was to go southeast to Buffalo Scenic River (#251) and then on to Branson for a show. The roads to BSR turned out to be torturous and the trip, 45 miles, took forever. When we got to the river, there were absolutely no places for us to park and precious few to even stop with the trailer. We left with CJH shooting two photos out her window while traveling over a bumpy bridge. We were there but failed to actually see much and taxed the truck to the max. Next on to Branson. Now I qualify for the stupid award, or another one of them. We edge into town and there is a very nice building “Branson Visitor Center” and we have been using them all across the US and Canada. In we go and get “help” to find a show we would like. We are passed off to a second person who can get better discounts. I still don’t catch on. After 15 minutes we decide on a show, decent prices and we are now told all we do to get this “amazing deal” is a brief visit to this wonderful property opportunity. We said “no” absolutely and left. The sales person was kinda shocked and that made me sad we were the exception. After frustrations with getting shows and prices, reviews etc., we opted to move north and see a movie tonight. Super decision to rescue a poor day. Excellent & abundant meal at Lamberts Throwed Rolls and off to see Downton Abby. We even found some ice cream!

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Here is a bonus photo from a couple of days ago when we stopped to see Harry S Truman’s birthplace.

Someone needs to tell me where we are! I’m off to campaign and I’m not in Arkansas anymore but back in Missouri. Make up your mind. And, by the way, find some decent ice cream. I am starving my brain cells - I need a butterscotch ripple, double chocolate, icy mint triple cone. STAT. Ms McKinley would never let this happen to me. Never.

The coyote at Yellowstone along the Yellowstone Lake

Alaska Journey Day 117

A Triple Day 

First light saw us cross town to Fort Scott. This is a well-resourced park with an extremely well done history in one of the old barracks. The grounds were immaculate but we did not linger because it was raining quite vigorously. We crossed into Missouri and headed south past Joplin to the George Washington Carver NHS. This park, number 249, was well worth the trip. Large grounds with a well marked walk that had statues and panels about GWCarver’s life gave you a peek at the enormous obstacles he overcame. Astonishing man. We also saw a bit about him at Tuskegee Institute, another park in Alabama, where he did most of his research. I challenge you to get a book about him and be enthralled. Tripping further south into Arkansas, on narrow, winding, hilly roads we emerged at our third park, Pea Ridge National Battlefield Park. Fitting for our 250th park as the first park I can remember visiting on my own was Gettysburg NBP. This was a Union victory and secured Missouri for the North. Most interesting aspect is how intact the field is, they own the entire 200 plus acres and the views are basically unchanged from the era. Also the old Butterfield Stage Route to the West ran across here and portions are still visible. Long tiring day. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

OK, enough. I am having trouble keeping up with these states. We are in Kansas, we are in Missouri, we are in Arkansas and it is barely lunch. I guess I need to get out and speechify a bit but no ice cream and one latte tells me we are not really in a civilized part of the world. Oops, can’t say that in campaign mode. I believe I will write a note to Ms. McKinley and ask for counsel. At this rate we will finish these 50 states in a few more days and I will see her in the Minnesota one. Maybe we can go quicker.

A statue of G. W. Carver as a boy in the woods he loved.

75% of the Pea Ridge battlefield is visible in this shot.

Alaska Journey Day 116

Forts and Friends Day 

Another long driving day. But at 130 miles in we meet our friend, Greta, sister of our long time friend, Gregg. We enjoy a nice time to catch up a bit before we go just a few miles south to Lindsborg, a Swedish town that was really fun with an excellent bakery. Miles later we arrive at Fort Scott in Southeast KS, find the NP site and then get lost twice trying to find the camp site in one of their parks. Not our best night. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Kansas has a lot more people and I really like the orderly roads and abundant coffee shops. Ice cream not so much. Greta is my new Kansas and Nebraska coordinator, I will let her know soon. She will be thrilled as she adores me. I can’t imagine I will have to do too much more of this cause apparently campaigning is one of my most outstanding abilities.

In a small Kansas town there were two of these restored stations that were hotel rooms. Plus this one was across the street from the world’s largest ball of twine. Wow.

Lindsborg Ks is a stunning town with wide brick streets, neat small homes and a wonderful downtown.

Alaska Journey Day 115

A Plain Day 

Up early with a great plan to get to a church in North Platte at 10:15 so we left for the three hour drive at 7. Perfect. Except for the fact that we entered Central Time. Oops. So we opted for the first service we found at eleven. It was pretty good, a Wesleyan new church plant. Then across much of Nebraska and Kansas as we angled south to get to park number 247, Nicodemus National Historic Site. This was a black community founded after the Civil War by those trying to escape the Jim Crow south. They built a thriving town that began to decline when the railroad bypassed it. Still an interesting place and they celebrate Homecoming (Emancipation Day) each year. Gayle Sayers was among several prominent people born here. Then more two lane quiet road with neat, compact little towns across the state until we land for the night at North 40 Alpaca Ranch. What fun we had among the 38 head at the ranch and with our hosts who showed us around. Great night in their parking lot, another hit from Harvest Hosts. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Nebraska turned out to have a few more people, maybe 400 or so, but still enough time spent here cause clearly I am adored. We then took a campaign swing into Kansas. Looks like about the same number of people but I was introduced to a new critter, an Alpaca. For a hornless beast they were OK, and pretty cute. Unfortunately I doubt they can vote. Well, more notes to Ms. McKinley will mark the end of this day. Sadly, day five with no ice cream, I’m getting jittery. 

This is the current VC but was built by the community in the 30’s for their gatherings. Beautiful work.

Alaska Journey Day 114

Time and Distance Day 

Yesterday a bit and today a lot we traveled. This is a big place and we wanted to get to some specific parks, so we piled on the miles. We did stop at the Agate Fossil Bed National Monument in Nebraska. Number 246 if you are keeping track or if you are not, it remains 246. This was in the middle of vast space and had a very nice VC. The place was a bit of a mystery. It was where some special ancient animals were discovered but no more digging is done. We took a 1.6 mile hike across a butte and looked at fossil rodent dens. The excitement was at a fever pitch. Then we drove until we reached Scott’s Bluff and then did laundry that evening. Not sure how much excitement we can handle. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Not sure why we are in Nebraska cause I can only find about 40 people. I’m sure some more must be somewhere or they would not call this a state. No lattes in site so it is a sad day except I seem to be humming Bruce Springsteen songs a lot. Anyway, I’m certain those 40 people will vote Bull Moose Party. Guess I’ll turn in early and dream of Ms. McKinley

The mounds whee the fossils were uncovered.

Alaska Journey Day 113

Friend’s Day The Sequel 

You never have enough time in Yellowstone or Grand Tetons so we poked around the “flats” and the dam area before we finally headed out. The weather was rainy and windy, the clouds low as we crested the 9800 foot pass leading out of the valley. At Debois we stopped for coffee and a break in the tiring drive and it turned into lunch and excellent pie at the Cowboy Cafe. Cute town and the rain stopped as we completed the 150 mile drive to Lander to see our friends, the Warners. We arrived a bit early so I got the oil changed and a superficial car and trailer wash. However the most exciting moment was the ceremonial removing of the yoga mats we had taped on the trailer three months earlier to protect it from stones on the Alcan. They worked well, no stone scars or scratches. We had a lovely time with Steve, Brenda and Elsie, Brenda’s mom who we knew in Virginia and now lives here with them. It was a late night after fine Thai food and lots of conversations that we tucked into our trailer at the city park. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I secured my Why Oming state coordinator, Brenda, and she will do an admirable job - but it ought to be easy because it seems everyone one loves me here. Brenda, of course, adores me. With this state complete we head to more, somewhere. Writing to Ms McKinley makes me miss her more. I can hardly wait for us to reach Minnesota where she will meet me to campaign together. Meanwhile she is busy with her work in Alaska but she writes every day and she has a lot of great advice. What a team we are making.  

We did see this elk in a place where only we were and isolated from the main road. Sometimes in the crowds you get a “just for you” view.

Alaska Journey Day 112

Leaving Yellowstone Day

On the way back to Grand Tetons we took one more loop on the Gull Drive but did not see much. Another stop, this time at the Rockefeller Parkway, was to see where I might photograph this park but did not see anything compelling so I shot the neat fireplace in the VC. Another stop at Colter Bay to use WiFi (at the laundry!) to pay some bills and yet one more at Signal Mountain where there was a spot left in the campground so we seized it. We took a short hike along two nice lakes, drove to the top of the mountain for a great view of the park and then set up for an early dinner to photograph sunset over the lake - right by our site, but the clouds rolled in and the sun set with out fanfare.  

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Spoke in several lodges where I am a hit, of course. Secured the National Parks for 2020. Since they are “National” I guess I have most of the 50 or so states covered but still, unrelenting, I press on regardless preparing for the “swing” states and the “battle” states. I wonder if they give prizes too? Was able to scoff down three lattes today with three different flavors, all were pretty well done but I think I could do better. I will have my Chief of Lattes look into this serious matter of state (more pol talk).

The aptly named Dragon’s Mouth” a super neat thermal feature.

Alaska Journey Day 111

Falls and Food Day

Even colder this morning, under 30 and heavy frost. Sunny and a bit warmer in the afternoon. Good for solar charging on the trailer. We had to run the generator for 3 hours yesterday. Went out before breakfast, saw a bull elk moving along the shore, pretty in the sunlight, some Bufflehead, a loon and an Osprey. Back to the trailer for a cooked breakfast today - French toast, eggs, Canadian bacon and then north to the Canyon area. At the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone we walked the 2 miles South Rim Trail. It was a beautiful day and the views from several points were outstanding. A quick drive on the North Rim and then ice cream at the old lunch counter in Canyon Village. We stopped for a long time on the way back in Hayden Valley to watch for animals, saw elk and bison then to Gull Drive where the sunset did not materialize too well but we saw a coyote. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Apparently I ought not to take a day off. Much turmoil about where I was and what I was doing or not doing. It is hard to understand because everyone loves me - they will all vote for me, right? Well, to keep everyone content, I will campaign today and tomorrow, speeches, baby licking and seeking campaign coordinators for some other states. (Still cannot imagine there are 50?)

Alaska Journey Day 110

Earth on Fire Day

It was cold this morning. It snowed this morning. Two days ago it was 87, not today. Rain, wind, sleet, snow, and sulphur. Lots of sulphur. We spent the day in the various thermal basins. We saw Old Faithful - twice, lots of pots, mud and paint, small geysers, bubbling ponds, steaming lakes and hundreds of vents with vapors rising across the landscape. This is a big park and it was a 50 mile ride to the majority of the features and lots of steps on the various boardwalks. I clocked 6.5 miles and breathed a lot of fumes. Still the colors, the sounds, the heat, the vistas - there one second and gone the next, are just a neat experience. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I took the day off, don’t tell anyone! Simply sat in the historic old lodge and sipped lattes today. Several flavors including huckleberry. Pretty decent. Aw, a well-deserved relaxing day. I could have used a massage but showed great restraint, one of my more admirable qualities. 

Alaska Journey Day 109

A Grand Old Day

Two parks today, the morning in the Tetons and the afternoon and evening in the oldest national park in the world, Yellowstone. (We also drove though the Rockefeller Parkway yet a third park. None of these are new to us but we were able to get a few nice photos. We were up before dawn, saw three moose, bison, pronghorns and a nice sunrise. Back to the trailer and off to Snake River overlook (site of Ansel Adam’s iconic photo) and Schabacker’s Landing for some really nice reflections and a cool walk. We then got the trailer and stopped again this time at Oxbow Bend but the light was not too good and no ducks. A stop at the Jackson Lake Lodge for lunch at the 1950’s lunch counter (authentic not retro!) before we left for Yellowstone. We got into the campground, very busy, and then went to see what we could find. Turned out to be a field with nine elk, one bull who bugled and stomped and carried on to let one young buck on the hilltop know he was not welcome.  

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

So we are now in the Yellow Stone. Lots of distant and inferior “cousins” called elk. Though I will be diplomatic because they might vote. Can’t have a bloc against me. (Note the use of political terms, I am so good with languages, one of my most outstanding qualities.) Ms. McK staying in touch each day. She is urging me to get moving to other states. I am trying to get the guides moving but you all know by now how “he” is. Eventually we will stumble out of here. Lots of states to win yet. This big campaign swing (see!) is crucial. 

Alaska Journey Day 108

A Grand Day

We opted for an early shot to the Grand Tetons because the campground is first come/ first serve and got in a nice site close to the river. We took the longer easier drive to the park from Idaho Falls with pleasant scenery and lots of huge ranches. One was for sale, 4187 acres. After we set up the trailer we went to the old Mormon ranch buildings to shoot some photos. There were bison there so that added a nice touch. Then to Jenny Lake. Our goal was hidden falls. So we boated to the other side of the lake and then hiked about 3/4 mile to the falls. Flowing well. The hike back around the lake, another 3 plus miles with two long and unexpected up hills. Bonus, we saw a moose in a pond and watcher her eat for a bit. Then back to the trailer for dinner and early night. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Ms McKinley was right. I have already met Moose and have more days to go. Also they named a town, Moose, after me and I have only been in the state for a day. Now I know why Oming, a Great State and full of Great People and babies. (Being a pol means constant awareness of statements to make.) Not sure we need anymore time here but Ms. McK says a few more days to guarantee the result. I bet I can find some good lattes in the town of Moose.