The water here is shallow and silty but the salmon are spawning and all the creeks that feed into this are packed with fishermen. Also we are told often whale follow the salmon in at high tide no luck so far.
This view was from a trail that went well past this viewpoint at about a mile.
Sabbath Day
We attended the early service at a large Christian Church followed by Kaladi Brothers coffee and work at the trailer because we had WiFi. I did not realize how much energy went into yesterday’s Arctic adventure! We found a good city walking path next to the campground and then set out to eat at the Moose’s Tooth (CJH wanted to try the famous pizza and I was in for a salad) but the wait for a seat was forever so we tried the Spenard Roadhouse, excellent. Watched a TV show on Amazon to take advantage of the super WiFi.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
I did not really sulk, I mean not too long, lots to do. Off to the research center where BdB already had several books marked for me. Couple more details to check but getting close to wrapping up the path to Moose Rights legislation. I will need absolute silence while I formulate the strategy to accomplish this stirring new development. My antlers are tingling - something is happening.
Cloud banks and faint mountains across Cook Inlet from Anchorage
Utqiagvik Day - part one
On the plane to Barrow, now called, Utqiagvik, early in the morning. First stop is Deadhorse, the epicenter of the oil effort on the North Slope. Nothing here if you are not working the fields. Most get off the plane for their two week tour, about 12 of us continue on to Barrow. We land in the furthest northern city in the US and one of the most northerly cities in the world. I am closer to Paris than Florida. Barrow has about 4000 people and more than 65% are native to the area. The streets are potholed, dirt with dirt edges where the scrapers have tried to even them out. It would be dusty if it were not raining so hard. Mud everywhere I went. The temperature when I deplaned was 41 degrees with heavy rain and 20 to 30 mph winds. The weather got worse all day. I first set out to locate the NP museum but no one was on the street but me! Several places were either not open yet or closed for the day. After getting directions from a person in the borough office, I continued walking. Sadly, the iconic whalebone arch by the Arctic Ocean and the rocky beach were off limits today because of high waves and erosion. Portions of the road closed intermittantly. The housing was ramshackle and unaligned on streets leaving a helter-skelter impression. Many structures looked ready to fall apart, and almost every place needed paint. Windows were very small. Water stood everywhere - dodging puddles was a full alert effort all day. Cars and trucks that no longer ran were left along the street or in back of the house, most sunk deep in the mud and often with broken windows. Boats appeared to be in better shape but the scores of ATVs and snow machines at most houses were not. Government buildings faired better; clearly a lot of money invested here. Decent schools, nice library, city courts, and museum (my goal) and a very nice new hospital. There were a few restaurants, a bank, some smallish stores, a hotel and a grocery. The streets were filled with taxis, and they drove quite quickly. You could hear various parts of the vehicles protesting as the taxis bounced along the rutted streets.
Utqiagvik Day - part two
I arrived too early for the museum (NPS park number 237) but it shared a building with the library. So, inside to dry, get warm, check in with Cindy via WiFi and find out more about the town from the librarian. I went into the museum when it opened. It was a small display but very nicely done with a comprehensive perspective on Arctic peoples’ culture. There was a workshop for native carvers to view through a window. One carver waved me inside. His name was John, and he took great pride in showing me around, introducing me to other carvers and showing me the work done in ivory and mammoth tusks. I met Karl, a rather famous carver and renowned hunter, very neat. They use ivory from walrus, antlers from caribou, teeth from seals, bones and baleen from whale - all of which they hunt. Most of their food is shot, hooked or netted. They are allowed to hunt all they can consume as native subsistence hunters, and they use every part of every animal. Very different culture. John pointed out an area where he had seen some snowy owl just under a mile away. I set off in heavier rain and stronger wind. I did not see an owl but did get two more new birds, Parasitic Jaeger and Long-tailed Jaeger. Also saw several Snow Bunting, so three new birds for the trip. Back at the museum, I chatted a bit about the birds and then took a taxi to the high school. It was the last day of Kivgiq, the Messenger Feast, an international festival in the Arctic Circle of dance, story and music that takes place every two years. I watched dancing and listened to a couple of stories half of them told in a native language. Missed the details of the dances except that they are rooted in the culture and passed on for generations. There were people there from several villages spread over Alaska. I was the only non-native person in the gym that I saw. I walked down the hall to look at crafters who brought goods to sell. You could buy furs, sinew, porcupine quills and carved ivory. I did not. I saw one person with coffee and she pointed to a room where they were serving food. I went in and asked if I could buy a coffee (did not want a meal) and was told, “No, everything is free.” I said I did not have a ticket or pay to get in and she said - no one does, it is free and the food is free, please eat. I got the coffee and sat down (glad to sit as I had walked about five miles in the rain at this point.) Now I was the object of interest and two people encouraged me to get some food. The man at the next table said, “There is soup.” I thought I could try some soup. Well, the choices were goose, duck or caribou stew. Oops. I decided to try a little of the stew. The lady also gave me duck soup, “mostly broth,” she offered. Back to the table. I tried the duck soup, not going to get that eaten, tried the stew, not too bad, so I eat some stew. Then I am given a small bowl of black squares. “Frozen whale” I’m told, “Put some salt on it.” So with salt I sampled my first ever whale. I actually tried not to taste it. By that point some 10 year old boys found me and said, basically, are you really going to eat that? So, sure, two or three more pieces. Then they gave me some sort of fresher whale. Got one down - the boys were pleased and left. Thankfully because there was not going to be a second bite of that! I thanked folks and left to try and get back to the arch. I made about 1/4 mile - the wind was now at a steady 40 mph with gusts over that and the rain was sort of sleety and sideways. I was having trouble walking - and it was not the whale! So I went back to the airport 45 minutes early and just read until my flight back to Anchorage, 800 miles south. It landed early because of the tail wind we had. What an interesting day! Missed some birds and some photo opportunities because of the weather but met 6 or 8 people that I talked to at length and enjoyed the generous spirit of the people. I will remember not the harshness of the climate nor the disrepair of the town but the warmth of the folks that live in Utqiagvik.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
Why couldn’t I go? Hunting??? I should pilot, I have the hat!! I’m sulking, don’t talk to me.
Move & Prep Day
They day began with a nice walk on the Blue Ice Trail that follows streams along the Placer River. Mountains tower over the other side of the water and tall pines and cottonwoods dominate the shorter aspen and willows. Two fish swam upstream as we were crossing a bridge, precursors of the coming spawn in this area. On then to Anchorage with a second stop at Potter’s Marsh, not as successful as stop number one.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
Finally we are headed to the city. I’m a bit anxious and excited about my solidifying plan for the advancement of Moose Rights. I think I’ve finally got the right approach and the next couple of days should confirm that. Also, I plan to wander out to the plane parking lot to visit some Moose in the area. Maybe they also fly, or perhaps some of the ladies will be impressed with my flying skills, one of my most outstanding abilities.
Long billed Dowitcher
These two chairs are sitting at a rest area by Tern Lake. There is no camping etc. so someone left them for others to use. Alaska Norm.
Slip Sliding Away, Day
“The near’ your destination, the more you slip…” At least that is how it felt at the end of the trail to the Bryon Glacier. This was an easy walk along a stream that ended at the foot of the glacier. The area was still deep in snow and that added an extra dimension to the walk once we left the trail footing was not always secure. But fun. We enjoyed this portion of the Chugach National Forest and spent two nights in the campground there.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
We were at a neat coffee shop in the AM and I was able to make plans for my research in Anchorage. My assistant, BdB, is already in place and doing the preliminary work. He does not have the shirts - disappointing, but he said he can explain. Doubtful. The guides frittered away the afternoon on some more ice. (What is it about this ice thing?) I however was engage in serious reflection and contemplation and rumination about my emerging plan for Moose Rights. Could not even worry about another date today.
This is a female White-winged Crossbill. Near the top at Hideout Trail in the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge.
Two Bears & a Waterfall Day
Mom and her cub were crossing the road as we left the Skilak Lake area. Cute. Our goal was the Russian River Falls only about 20 miles from where we camped the last two days. We arrived, ate lunch and started for the falls. The trail is wider than most, billed as a family hike. Signs everywhere to be Bear Aware as this area is known for them using the trail. We saw none. At the falls, 2.5 miles, we watched salmon leaping up the rapids. This was neat as it is a natural rocky rapids and the falls were roaring. People cheered as a salmon would make or nearly make the first falls. I never saw one get further. And the hike we drove to the Portage Glacier area, closer to Anchorage as I need to be there on Saturday. Why? Stay tuned to your All Alaska All Day & All Night station.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
So we had a pretty good time munching berries this morning. I even made the guides late. They are so cute when they are “miffed.” I don’t think I will call Hudson again. She never had a latte, no interest in Moose Rights and she said they were covered in snow much of the year why would you eat it out of a cone? !!! I most definitely need a “city” girl. Heading to the city in a day or so and I need the time for my new research that will completely fix Moose RIghts. And to meet up with BdB for the shirts. And to see out the ladies. And SURELY by then the minions Mr. Mook sent will be here. He is usually reliable. Or so I’m told. But then look at all the Driver gets wrong.
One Giant Leap for Salmon
Tern Lake, we saw two!
Short Steep Hike Day
We awoke later than any day on the trip and maybe in recent memory! Guess we were tired. And the loon was calling. First, we drove the rutted road to the east to overlooks and a close up of Skilak Lake where we heard the raucous cries of gulls and cormorants at a rookery just off shore. The centerpiece of the day was a hike to the top of a mountain on the Hideout Trail. It was “supposed” to be only 3/4 mile and take 2 hours. That ought to be a clue. My step counter said it was a 2.4 mile roundtrip. And it was open to the sun due to a fire in 2000. We chose the wrong clothes and both of us were melting. I forgot my water so we only had Cindy’s. Almost at the top we met Will, head of fire prevention for the park. Nice guy who has had a tough 6 weeks with the fires here on the Kenai Peninsula. He refilled our water bottle so we made it to a wonderful view at the top of the trail of the large Skilak Lake, the Kenai River and mountains all framed by the profuse fireweed. Glorious. Dinner at the trailer for two tired people.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
The guides went up, I went down into the marshland and spoke to many interested Moose. I think Moose Rights is catching on. I knew my persistence would pay off, it is one of my most outstanding qualities. I also met several beautiful ladies. Most clearly adored me. But I really liked Hudson, she was a bit old fashioned but what a beautiful woman. We are going to go out and eat berries together in the morning. Hope I can find some mint to chew before we meet:)
Water, rest, and a spruce forest under your feet
One Short Trip Day
After a routine morning on the trailer, groceries and work at a coffee shop, we were off to Skilak Lake in Kenai NWR, 25 miles from Soldotna. Our $5 camp site is beautiful - on Hidden Lake with a rocky ledge on either side and the lake behind us. We saw and heard a loon and did a short hike on Kenai River Trail to the canyon overlook with neat views. Dinner was grilled chicken and stir fried vegetables from the Homer Farmers Market. We were up later than usual for a sunset over the lake. Not spectacular, but nice light.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
BdB is not back - he will join us in Anchorage. Well, that will be a good thing as I need to get to the library to learn more about TOP SECRET things that go on in the country that might be the ultimate key to Moose Rights. Meanwhile, the guide moved us from a grocery store parking lot to a wonderful super Moosey world. I am going to gather a group and do another speech. I wish BdB would have come here first with the signs and the freshly harvested shirts to give out. Maybe I will meet a lovely Moosette today.
Rafters going through the Kenai River Canyon
Glaucous-winged Gull soars along the river.
This is a lone fisherman, in a glacier fed river, being watched by a lone eagle. Solitude, bracing water, spruce forests and salmon. Alaska Norm
One Moose Day
Church this morning was at Kenai Christian where the Trustys served at one time. They have planted a church in New Zealand and Waypoint was part of their sponsor network. Neat. We explored the road north to the end. Nothing spectacular, talked to “set net” fisherman and a traditional angler but did not get stuck in sand. We saw one moose trotting (do moose trot?) on the highway. The most interesting thing was a family gathering during low tide in Captain Cook State Park where most of the kids were playing, sliding, slathering and throwing tidal mud. They were having a ball. Amazing. We have noted that the kids here still get to do things that would get parents in trouble in the L-48.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
Well, word came today from BdB who will join us in a day or so. He reports that the fields of shirts come from China and Vietnam and India. He said they float to the US in giant metal boxes. I’m pretty sure he did not get much of this right. First, I never heard of Vietnam, China is who made my dishes and India, we were near Indians in some states and did not see any shirt fields. He traveled to Asia - where is that, maybe near Oz:) - and had to learn Mandarin which, he told me, took two days. To talk about an ORANGE! I think BdB needs a good long rest in a nice quiet place. Clearly he is not well. Now I need to take care of him, still find out about shirts and get Moose Rights back on the track. I need minions and a girl friend. I did talk to a Moose today, he was in a hurry but still impressed.
A Lesser Yellowlegs joins the mud party
The only NA songbird that completely immerses itself in water. Fun to watch. This one had a large next near a dam. They like fast running water.
Stuck in the Sand Day
After a morning at the bakery and craft filled farmers market in Homer, we moved north to attend church in Kenai and to explore the National Wildlife Refuge that occupies most of the north end of the Kenai. The NWR-VC is nice but very hard to find. We finally parked there as the rain started and got quite wet on a short walk. Then off to the water front campground recommended by the volunteer at the VC. Disaster. First, it was overflowing with anglers. Second, it was on soft sand. Before I knew the situation, we were in axle deep. I had to unhook the trailer while a very helpful fisherman named Juan brought in his heavy truck and we put my tow hitch into his truck. I drove down the road a bit and he followed a few minutes later. We re-hooked and decided we needed solid ground. We are at the Wal-Mart tonight.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
Once again Moosieness wins out. Our driver got stuck in 8 inches of sand. Heh. I barely know if 8 inches of sand is on my hoof so he should have asked for my advice. BdB sent word that he would meet us in Kenai. I am just amazed he got hold of us as we were moving north and he said he had some news for me. About time. How hard could it be? The library was good but I need more resources so I will wait until Anchorage. No notes yet from the lovely ladies I wrote to - I wonder if they are arguing amongst themselves about who gets to write back to me? I think that must be it. A companion for Moose Rights would be nice.
Flowers at the market
Possibly the best pie ever. More research soon.
The Decompress Day
We were a bit exhausted by the trip yesterday so we hit the slow button. It was a coffee shop / work with WiFi morning. A stop at the visitor center, a short walk on the Homer Spit & cruising a couple of galleries was the extent of the day plus dodging rain. We also did laundry, dinner and other mundane things.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
I thought I would fly again today but no such luck and I am kinda stuck. I am a bit worried about BdB, several days and he is still not back with the fields of shirts info, the minions are no where in sight, and most unexpectedly, no letters back yet from the enamored females. I am not scheduled for a Moose Rights rally until Monday and we are not making a lot of progress. It is perfect Moose weather today but that is not even cheering me up. I think I will head to the library and do some research.
Not a good photo but walking with the group in bear territory we cannot stop until the guide does so walking past I handheld this with my long lens attached to the tripod. So I am glad I can ID this new bird, a Black Turnstone.
Sandhill Crane
The Day We Did Fly!
In Alaska, so far, our experiences have exceeded expectations. We flew with Bear Adventures to Katmai National Park (number 23?) hoping to see some Coastal Brown bear - same as Grizzly but with a different diet so they are a bit larger. We landed at a beach in Katmai that our pilot, Ben, was watching for the bear to return with the arrival of the salmon. He saw three from the air so he took a chance and we landed on the rocky beach. We walked 200 yards and saw a sow and two older cubs, nearly full grown. Before we had settled in, a wolf appeared up over the dune and the bears took off chasing it, right past us. The wolf immediately went back over the dune and we did not see it race down the beach. The bears came back to the stream to fish 200 feet from us and worked their way further upstream. We watched them for about 20 minutes. Walking farther we came across two bears about 4 or 5 years old, possibly siblings, according to Ben. We moved a bit toward them and sat to watch them fishing in the edge of the ocean. They were 150 yards away at first but gradually moved toward us. When they started following the river, we went across the dunes upstream and sat to wait - the bears soon were back in sight on the opposite side of the stream. We watched them fish inexpertly. Then they became agitated. They were huffing and backing away. Coming up the stream toward us on our side of the river was a huge bear, and these younger ones knew to give him space. This bear walked 25 feet from where I was shooting photos. He continued up the stream and we went back across the dunes again. He stopped to fish and caught a salmon at once. We watched him enjoy his dinner. He tried for another one and missed, then ambled off out of sight. Back at the plane we took off from the beach into a strong headwind. Ben chose to take us over a volcano that had a deep frozen lake in the cone. Stunning. After dinner and ice cream, we returned to the trailer and, exhausted, we were quickly asleep.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
I am just an amazing pilot. I had Ben sit next to me just in case. Unfortunately, Ben did not have a neat hat. I landed us on a beach. Who knew I had such a touch! The guides and a couple of others, Dave and Val, were all agog over another batch of antler-less animals. But I went to search out Moose. None to be found. Where could they be this was perfect Moosy habitat. Just as well as I am still in the R&R stage. And I needed to be at my best to get that plane off the beach. Needless to say, I did so with aplomb. And we had ice cream on the way home. No Birch though.
From 25 feet! Stay with me by this time next year I’ll be telling about the time I had to move my camera for him to pass:)
Chasing Salmon
Our way home
