Good day to each of you who may be aficionados of this blog, as I believe it is categorized. I trust you have already read a wee bit of my biography earlier on this site, we shall explore more of that together in the days ahead. My brief here is to comment on the culture and cuisine of this tiny foray into Scotland. I am delighted to do so.
Initially, I must say, I shall keep primarily to lodging and restaurants, only a rare reference to other issues of import.
The travelers I am with each day are quite distinct regarding their palates. The lass, Jill, has a creative and sophisticated approach to her food. She is also properly neat in every manner. The lad, Dave, well, less so is all I will say at this time. It was he who opted for fish and chips (soggy) stuffed in a box and eaten WHILE DRIVING, and that is unconscionable. I shall hope that is not repeated.
Restaurants generally have been well chosen (please note exception above) as has lodging. I shall highlight two of each from the first week of our holiday. The most outstanding choice of overnight chambers would be the guest house at Glencoe, Ardno House. Pristine would cover all the critical bits; and the thoughtfulness behind the selection of furnishings and linens, hot tea and hot chocolate amenities in the room accompanied by delicious homemade shortbread biscuits, plus ample bath and closet space were peerless, the result of innkeepers who love what they do and care about every detail of their guests’ comfort. Plus, the view out our windows of the loch was breath-taking. Breakfast was a treat prepared from extensive choices by Chef Robert, while we were attended by his wife, the delightful Morag. The sautéed mushrooms in smoked paprika sauce over toasted English muffin is not to be missed. The tea was proper English tea, beautifully brewed, and the french-pressed coffee met the expectations of Dave’s discerning palate. Please note both ice cream and coffee are anomalies from his usual lack of discernment. The food was perfectly presented on white-clothed tables, correctly set with charming crockery and flatware and bud vases of fresh roses.
On the budget-friendly end of the spectrum, much smaller but equally spotless, was the Dacama House in Ullapool. Our delightful hostess, Mary, was extremely friendly and enthusiastic about her work and our travels. She directed us to the fish and chips shop owned by her husband, Robert, where we enjoyed excellent panko-breaded haddock and very crisp chips - absolutely not in the same food category as the boxed mess consumed in the car. Jill found cream of sweet potato soup spiced with nutmeg, celery, and garlic delightful, and perfect for an al fresco supper on a cool but sunny evening.
Showers (the bathing kind, not the rain kind) are always an adventure overseas, and at Dacama House we had a new experience - an “all-in-one” bath, with the shower not in a separate enclosure but rather in a corner of the room with a slightly sloped floor leading to the drain. The ingenious part was a hinged glass wall that swung out to keep the rest of the bathroom dry when the shower was in use, and then folded back to make ample room in what would otherwise have been a rather crowded small bath.
Our best dinner this week was at the Olive Garden (NOT the American chain!) in Oban. Dave had excellent fish and chips there, also (again, unrelated to the boxed mess - but enough about that). Do you notice that fish and chips are becoming a theme with him? Jill enjoyed creamy chicken-liver pate with a very nice arugula salad and oat crackers, followed by perfectly cooked salmon over fresh beet salad with satsuma oranges and mustard vinaigrette. Outstanding!
And one aside - a bonus for you, dear readers - was the rhubarb and cream ice cream at a small shop in Inveraray from the award winning Yarde Farm who are “serious about ice cream.” A unique flavor for you colonials, but we in Scotland know the value of rhubarb in a variety of fine dishes.
Respectfully submitted,
Miss Rowena Brambleglen, wishing you a perfect day.
