Fly Day /  by Dave Hileman

Off to the Florida Keys and Key West this morning. It is a three hour drive from our campsite! And we thought we were south. It was a nice, cool morning. As is just 50 when we left. The Keys were not just what I expected. Most were busier, bigger and lots of mundane businesses and tacky shops - could have guessed the tacky shops. We arrived in Key West and Janet found us a very good place to eat, outdoor dining on rough benches but excellent food. The only issue was chickens and roosters sitting at eye level and scrabbling at your feet and flying across your table at about 2 feet. Apparently people in Key West find having hoards of domestic foul wandering the streets and interrupting your dinner charming. I think this speaks volumes about the Key West “vibe.” I would need several of the adult beverages offered everywhere in quantity to begin to see roaming poultry as charming. Yuck. Rusty and I set off for the airport and our seaplane to the Dry Tortugas National Historic Site 70 miles off Key West while Cindy and Janet headed to some historic sites and to spend the afternoon negotiating the chickens. 

The Dry Tortugas and Fort Jefferson were wonderful and the flight over the water at 500 feet exciting. The fort that used 16,000,000 bricks made in South Carolina was begun in 1826 and never completely finished but was nearly so. Three stories tall it occupies nearly the entire island save a few yards of land on two sides. It never saw hostile action yet it held, at one point, 1600 people. It was a pleasant day but most of the year it is brutal, hot and full of mosquitos. We had a nice flight back with gorgeous pastel skies. After reconnecting with Cindy and Janet we drove with one stop for dinner back to the campground about 11:30. 

The Engaged Cadillac

What a contrast! A banner day! Yay! We went off to a place with real food, coffee shops and just stuff. It took a while but is was so worth it, no gators nor crocs either. We had ice cream! Finally. Lovely flavors, I picked up two or three that you will be reading about once I perfect them. Also mango lattes will soon be amongst the hottest new trend only outdone by my soon to be famous Key Lime & Pineapple latte (with a dollop of Dole whip topping). What a marvelous place. And, I got to fly another one of those floaty planes. Flighting is one of my most outstanding qualities.

Sadly we drove back to the hottest place on earth where we will spend yet another fruitless day. WHY?

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/  by Dave Hileman

I started the day very early walking around Eco Pond at sunrise and stayed for almost two hours. It is a bird paradise. I watched lots of herons and egrets but lots of less usual birds for me including: Little Blue Herons, White Pelicans, Rosette Spoonbills, Wood Storks, Avocets and Ibis - both glossy and white. The star of the morning was a Swallow Tail Kite. Super cool bird and somewhat rare even for here. I also got a photo of a bird neither I nor the rangers could ID, hope to get some help at some point on a name for that one. Later that morning all of us went to the Mahogany Hammock - a boardwalk through a mahogany forest of dense vegetation we saw no animals or birds there. Later after a respite at the ranger station we did a walk around the Marina and then a walk with Ranger Mike to see American Crocodiles - including one very large one sunning on the boat ramp. 

The Engaged Cadillac

I’m really depressed. This place has no coffee, no ice cream and not even a restaurant of any kind. How can I learn in this food desert environment. And did I mention it is at least 700 degrees here? Oh, and the crocs are even less friendly than the gators and believe me that is saying a lot. I can’t talk to Ms. McKinley and … I’m going back to bed.

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Mahogany tree with pods

Mahogany tree with pods

Flamingo /  by Dave Hileman

Today we traveled to Flamingo. First across 41 where we did a couple of stops, one at Shark Valley, the first in the Everglades. We walked a bit there viewing alligators - including several babies and a few birds. We also saw several Gar, a strange Florida fish. At the main entrance to the Everglades National Park VC, a very nice center with informative displays and WiFi, we found out that the park housed a Nike Missile Base, a relic from the cold war. On the day we were here they offered a tour and we chose to do that - great choice. There are several buildings still extant but the highlight was the missile assembly building and one of the launch “barns” where there was a restored Nike Missile. We then completed the drive to the campground at Flamingo. A short walk to Eco Pond proved that mosquitoes are not extinct in Florida. Not even close. 

The Engaged Cadillac

We drove right by, right past, as in we did not stop for a fruit stand that had milk shakes including Key Lime Milkshakes. In case no one knows you make a milk shake with ICE CREAM. What is wrong with…. no never mind, I know what is wrong with the Driver. LOTS! And it is hot, who knew it would be 600 degrees in the winter. This is nuts. And those gators, they are not nice. Not at all nice. Made gathering reeds a bit dicey. But I prevailed because bravery is one of my most outstanding characteristics. So besides discovering the next new latte flavor, Key Lime topped with whipped cream and a sprinkling of crushed graham cracker, it has been a dismal zero decent coffee zero ice cream zero Ms. McKinley day. 

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A Saturday Drive /  by Dave Hileman

We were up and out on a 26 mile loop road early in the day. We stopped at several places where we could see a bit into the swamp and watched lots of birds and gators. Then back across the Big Cypress to a few other spots for watching wildlife. We then stumbled into a “didn’t know that was there” place at the end of route 29. We were at Everglades City a pretty little town in the midst of water. Finally on to the very end of the road, Chockoloskee, at an old store (c.1906) that served this community for nearly a century. Rusty (as in R U S T Y Harman of Clermont, Fl) found us lunch at a really good sea food place, Camelia Street Grill, on the water and we had excellent tacos of various kinds. With a couple more stops at waysides on the way back we called it an early day as it was getting very warm and headed back to the campground by four. A lively game night ensued post dinner where I did not win. 

The Engaged Cadillac

This is an awesome place. They have large, leftover dinosaurs called gators. And tons of weird birds. And lots of swamp water and great new grasses for experimental lattes. What a find! I am sure these will be the talk of Alaska once Cups & Cones gets open. There has been a paucity of ice cream on this trip. (The Driver tried to pass off little bricks wrapped in paper but we are not accepting that as actual ice cream.) I guess we will get that soon. Meanwhile off to the swamp to gather exotic ferns and grasses for the next batch of lattes. 

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Travel Day /  by Dave Hileman

Today was mostly a travel day. We left Clermont about 10 with the Harman’s leading the way south. Black Friday had lots of people out shopping and even our plan of Interstate avoidance was only moderately successful, the roads were still pretty full of traffic. We drove straight south and then east to Big Cypress Preserve, our 263rd park. We arrived just a few minutes before the VC closed, got a map and strolled the short boardwalk behind the center. There we saw a few Manatee, Great Blue and Little Green Herons and a Blue Gray Gnatcatcher and the eyes and snout of an alligator. Heading east toward the campground we stopped at a mile long swamp boardwalk and saw a few wading birds, a Yellow Bellied Turtle or two and another Little Green. We had a dinner of Thanksgiving leftovers and plotted the next day’s activities. 

The Engaged Cadillac

Wow, was I a hit at this Thanksgiving thing. Everyone wanted to meet me and talk to me and taste my lattes. Except on the lattes they must have gotten mixed up because no one came out to my stand at the correct time -there must have been a mixup. Oh, well, still perfecting some of those. However, I did meet an actual barista, Laura, and she gave me several tricks of the trade. My cafe is getting better and we are not even open. I also met Angie, the daughter - and the grand-daughter of the dapper Stan. She adored me, naturally. I think I could get used to this T-Day meal. Wonder how many times a month they have this? I’ll have to ask. On the endless trip further south (I did not know the was more south?) I worked on my flavor combinations. I added a salted gravy to my list of experimental lattes and a cranberry/orange/horseradish mix that I think will really excite the beverage world. 

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A Remembrance of Thankfulness /  by Dave Hileman

We enjoyed a delightful Thanksgiving day in Florida with the Harman’s and their family. A very traditional meal of turkey (expertly grilled by Rusty - who knew his chefiness quotation was so high), stuffing, mashed potatoes, vegetables, home made rolls (Yay, Olya!) pies and more. Lots more. There were about 20 people and one moose. We enjoyed their company a lot and Rusty hooked up his TV to show some of our Alaska photos. A low key, no travel, sit around very full day in all senses of the word. 

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Target Tortugas 3 /  by Dave Hileman

We spent the night in a Cracker Barrel parking lot in Florida then in the morning drove to Payne Prairie Preserve a bit south of Gainsville. This is a unique place where there are bison and wild horses, we saw neither but did a nice long walk and viewed a lot of birds. Then on to or friends in Florida. So far we have visited three new NP sites. All interesting.

The Engaged Cadillac

OK, I was close to heading back to Ms. McKinley but we finally stopped at a decent coffee shop, actually rated one of the best in the country. I think it was good but not as good as several I have been in and no unique flavors. That of course does not discourage me as creative flavoring is one of my most outstanding characteristics. So, inspired by the travel, I have already sussed out these potential great latte sensations. One I’ll be working is a Ginger/ Peach combo, another effort will be a Pecan & Chocolate with a touch of swamp water and a Boiled Peanut Pumpkin Mousse. More later!

This is the gate (reconstructed ) that greeted prisoners entering Andersonville.

This is the gate (reconstructed ) that greeted prisoners entering Andersonville.

Gratitude /  by Dave Hileman

No travel posting today but a reflection prompted by traveling. Just this week in two locations, Andersonville Prison and Jimmy Carter Historic Site I was reminded about being grateful. Not for things or the lack of them but for people who love and support us, who pray for us and nurture us, for kindness great and small, for words spoken that heal or help or advise. In Andersonville among the most horrid of conditions people still found support, encouragement and hope. One of the information posts there told about how men who were dying would ask to be moved back to their circle of friends so they could spend their last hours among the ones they cared for the most. Regardless of what you think about President Carter’s presidency and his decisions, you have to be impressed by his family and friends and that he never wavered in expressing gratitude for them and for their influence and the direction they gave to his life of faith. It seems at thanksgiving we are focused on our material and physical blessings (and it is good to be a grateful person) but more so we ought to show gratitude to the myriad of people who make our lives richer, fuller and more meaningful every day. That is after all how God designed us. Living a life of gratitude ought to be the air we breathe.

Happy Day of Thanksgiving

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Target Tortugas - 2 /  by Dave Hileman

Challenging day. First, we arrived at the Ocmulgee near Macon, Georgia. Another Indian mound. We have not been one we actually liked. Until today. The VC is a beautiful Art Deco building constructed in 1938 and the park site has seen occupation for 12,000 to 15,000 years. There are mounds from about 1000 years ago when a different tribal group controlled the area and in one they located the intact floor of the council house. You can visit thet reconstruction of the building today with the floor behind glass. Really neat. Then on to Andersonville. My Great Great Grandfather, George Leisure was a prisoner here for 12 months. He survived while more than 13,000 others did not. At one point the 26 acres held 33,000 men. Most with no shelters. Staggering. Lots more later.

The Engaged Cadillac

Not a stellar day for day two of the trip. First we touring a hill (worse than ice from the summer) and then we went to a place full of cannons. I thought we were done with them. Also, the promised food, -it was food Guide Two, the pretty one, fixed in the trailer. It was great but how does that advance the Cup & Cones Cafe? Not a lick (did you see what I did there- you gotta stay on your toes here.) Also NO INTERNET, NO PHONE. Do you have any idea how much Ms. McKinley is missing me and I can’t even call. One more day, I give it one more day to see improvements around here. One.

The Visitor Center at Ocmulgee

The Visitor Center at Ocmulgee

One of three sections of the cemetery dedicated to Union soldiers who died at Andersonville.

One of three sections of the cemetery dedicated to Union soldiers who died at Andersonville.


Target Tortugas - 1 /  by Dave Hileman

Not much in the way of photos today, as in none! We left in the morning and the rain had stopped leaving a clean beautiful day. We stopped in Fayetteville for church and then headed south to Florence. Then 20 west toward Augusta, GA, home of some golf game I think. We stopped in a town called Madison. We ate in a CB and stayed the night in the Walmart. The glitz and glamour never wain.

The Engaged Cadillac

Bit of a slow start to this adventure and not a new flavor of latte in sight. Plus no Tom. I thought he would be on the trip too to add sanity to the Driver. But no. All I did today was feel sad about being apart form Ms. McKinley. Tomorrow ought to be better, I heard some talk about food.

Bear in the background - not expecting to see any grizzly on this trip.

Bear in the background - not expecting to see any grizzly on this trip.

Please, Hold the Parades /  by Dave Hileman

I know you missed me but there is a lot to do so we can celebrate later.

First thing I know you are all anxious to hear about is Ms. McKinley. She is fabulous, devoted to me and very busy getting ready for the grand opening of the first ever Cups & Cones Cafe. We have a spot all picked out north of Anchorage and south of Denali. Nice view of the river and lots of marshy stuff to soak in during warmer weather. The even bigger news is that once we get open in January she will turn her riveting attention to The Wedding! She has chosen a springish date, so stay tuned.

Also, as you faithful readers of my portion of Two Lane Touring, and who doesn’t read that first, already know, I have suspended my presidential campaign due to the fact The Bull Moose Party, unfairly I may add, does not get an automatic spot on the ballot. I am keeping all options open for 2024 and have several minions working on pre-planning a strategy. However two of them, Flash and Iso, are from Mr. Mook and they wander around muttering things like “evidence chain,” “procedure,” and “fresh donuts.” Not too helpful. I am also being pressured to run for governor, because it would be a “stepping stone” to the higher office. Easy - Peasy, that would not even be a contest but Ms. McKinley believes I need to concentrate on the Cafe for a few weeks. I can do that.

Which may cause some of you to muse as to why I am here. The guides are going to Florida and I need to find some fresh, creative and tasty dishes for the cafe and new flavors of lattes. So I bopped down to ride with them on this trip. Not the epic journey of the summer but they still need me when they get too far from home. Ms McKinley actually encouraged me to go saying something like it will go smoothly with me off doing more research. Isn’t that great? What a lady.

Finally, I leapt at the chance to see my dear friends Rusty, Janet and the ever dapper, Stan. Rumor is they might even let me meet their daughter. Janet adores me, of course, and may be suffering from depression since it has been a long time between visits.

We are going, I am promised, to a vast swamp or two. Delightful.

One of several statues being unveiled for me. This one used a draft name for the cafe. Oops.

One of several statues being unveiled for me. This one used a draft name for the cafe. Oops.

All over Alaska people are responding to me - naming babies, changing streets. So nice to be adored.

All over Alaska people are responding to me - naming babies, changing streets. So nice to be adored.


Bird Week VII: Pairs and More .7 /  by Dave Hileman

We shall close out BW7 with these two eagles. Seeing eagles in Alaska is not difficult as they are there in huge numbers but I never tired of them. Watching them fish or soar, sitting in a tree or on an old sign was captivating. Large ,strong, powerful, and majestic are apt descriptive words for the American symbol. I never saw them in large numbers as occur more in the midst of September but we often saw three or four at a time and few if any days passed, even in Anchorage, without spotting at least one. What a treat.

“But those who trust in the LORD will find new strength. They will soar high on wings like eagles. They will run and not grow weary. They will walk and not faint.”

Isaiah 40:31 NLT

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Bird Week VII: Pairs & More .6 /  by Dave Hileman

This is a way more exciting photo to me than most (all) of you. It is not particularly good, as like many of these it was taken from a moving and pitching boat from a distance. No, the reason I like it shows a new bird that I did not know I had until it emerged once I got home and saw this shot. Three of these are Bonaparte Gulls. I was told, correctly, that most of them had left by the time I was here, They mate and nest in April and May to June leaving for deep water well off shore by late August and the glossy black head feathers begin to fade to black patches as early as July. But here are three of them still in the sound in very early September. You can see some of the black at the base of the necks. I’m sure these were feeding before their long trip and I just happened to catch them while I was shooting a flotilla of birds against some rocks. Serendipity.

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Bird Week VII: Pairs and More .5 /  by Dave Hileman

Look closely. This is mom and two babies their heads just barely poking up over her wing. I was here when the first one hatched. Cindy and I watched the first swim and the dad protecting them both. Then the next morning we drove back to the Palmer Hay Flats and found the second baby Red-necked Grebe had hatched. Never saw number two leave the safety of mom’s feather bed. There was still a third egg but we did not get back to the nest. I love the zebra colors of the new hatchlings. Not sure how long that coloration lasts. This was the third time I had seen a Red-necked Grebe and it was really neat.

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Bird Week VII: Pairs & More .3 /  by Dave Hileman

These three birds are Tufted Puffins. Unlike the Horned Puffin of the west or the Atlantic Puffin found in the Northeast, these birds prefer to nest on cliffs with a bit of grass or other foliage. So in the same area you may see Horned Puffins nesting on bare rock and Tufted on tiny outcrops of grasses almost next to each other. Your Tufted is also easily noted for the black belly while the other two are bright white. All of them are neat with colorful outsized bills.

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Bird Week VII: Pairs & More /  by Dave Hileman

We start this week with a trio of Brown Headed Cowbirds or “Molothrus ater a small obligate brood parasitic icterid of temperate native to North America.” That is actually English, or mostly so. These three were found in the Badlands National Park. They appear to be in some sort of lecture by the aloof professor. These birds are pretty smart. They deposit their eggs in other birds nests and then leave!. Then as the hatchlings age they seek out other Cowbirds by their calls and songs.

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Career Change? /  by Dave Hileman

This is one of dozens of fishing boats seeking a salmon harvest. Hard work, dangerous work.

“One day as Jesus was walking along the shore of the Sea of Galilee, he saw two brothers—Simon, also called Peter, and Andrew—throwing a net into the water, for they fished for a living. Jesus called out to them, “Come, follow me, and I will show you how to fish for people!” And they left their nets at once and followed him.” Matthew 4:18-20 NLT

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