"Sometimes you feel like a nut..." by Dave Hileman

You know you are with a super grandson when he is willing to go 80 miles kinda out of the way to allow me to get park number 292, Effigy Mounds (no coconut) National Monument. The mounds were on the top of a plateau about 400 feet over the Mississippi. We hiked up and were able to view several un-named mounds and two that were roughly in the shape of a bear. As with most of the mounds we have seen it is simply an appreciation of the culture and skill of the builders that is the draw. This park is isolated from any of our planned travels so it was great to pick this one up on the way East. The best part was the great view of the river.

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The “Bear”

The “Bear”

Path by multiple counds

Path by multiple mounds

Grand Prismatic by Dave Hileman

What else can you say?

We traveled about 1200 miles the last two days. Today was with really only one major stop that will be on the dock for tomorrow. Lots planed for Sunday’s travels.

“Those who live at the ends of the earth stand in awe of your wonders. From where the sun rises to where it sets, you inspire shouts of joy” Psalm 65:8 NLT

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Yellowstone Astonishes by Dave Hileman

In racing it is said that driving a corner at the maximum speed and line possible is going 10/10ths. There have been a very few drivers who exceed what mortals can do, Fanigo, Moss, Clark, Gurney & Schumacher come to mind. Yellowstone is a park that exceeds at whatever it presents. We entered the park and encountered in a mile a bison plodding along as we drove at his speed. He was covered in glittering ice. We viewed mud pots, vents, geysers and hot pools all emitting clouds of steam and, of course, Old Faithful, scheduled to erupt at 12:04 and erupted at 12:04. We only had the late morning but well worth the stop.

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And Now for Something Different by Dave Hileman

To be right up front, I was much better today, even ate twice, however, at nearly 10 as I write this, the tiredness is creeping in. Actually rushing so again plans are aborted after the singular post. But what a neat day. Kellen and I left Ely, the town where a Wal-Mart is well over 120 miles away, and headed to Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. We arrived about 10 and drove out on the salt. After a few experiments to see what a bit of speed felt like 80mph, we set off to set the Land Speed Record for stock 2003 S-60 Volvo sedan with full compliment of luggage. I was quite content to let Kellen go after the record with a paltry 100/105. The Kellen took off toward the horizon until the speck disappeared in a cloud of salt. He returned past me at speed - note the photo and then after a couple more at 60ish for photos he stopped, excuse me, pitted. His camera on a tripod recorded him at 135 vicinity. The FIA or NASCAR or SCCA or the FBI have not settled the crown on K but, really, what other 2003 stock Volvo has even competed the year, so until notified otherwise, I declare Kellen US LSR holder for 2003 stock S-60 Volvos at the BSF. Five cylinders forever!

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Walnut Canyon NM by Dave Hileman

This was neat place. You walked down (and up!) a bit over 300 steps from the canyon ridge to what they call the Island Trail. It wraps about a rocky peninsula with 900-1100 year old cliff swellings.

A persona note, I am able to eat a little bit today but incredibly tired. So, done for tonight and hope for a more alert day tomorrow.

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Sunset Crater Volcano by Dave Hileman

I have posts up only because I was ahead a bit. I had several others planned that I will get to mid-week. Both Cindy and I ate something that made us terribly ill Friday night all day Saturday and for me most of Sunday. Very sick! I was able to leave Monday AM with Kellen but not near 100% yet but way better than Saturday. He will post today’s trip and I will chime in ….tomorrow, I hope. Meanwhile, this park was interesting and the lone tree on the ridge sits in a dark, volcanic ash that is black and crunchy to walk on.

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Montezuma Castle by Dave Hileman

This was a new park for Cindy but not me as I was here when I was 12. Don’t remember much but I have the 1960’s brochure. This cliff dwelling is five stories tall and you cannot tour inside the ruins since they were closed in 1951.

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Sunset Crater Volcano NM Park #288 by Dave Hileman

It is appropriate for us to share a sunset photo at Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument. This shot is over some of the lava fields that in places are hundreds of feet deep, ranging to a few inches in other places. It is a reminder of the power of nature to alter history. The peoples who lived here were very scatter before the eruption and after when there was less arable land the gathered in larger communities.

“He created the horizon when he separated the waters; he set the boundary between day and night. The foundations of heaven tremble; they shudder at his rebuke.” Job 26: 13, 14 NLT

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Wupatki National Monument Park #289 (3 photos) by Dave Hileman

Wupatki National Monument is about 35 miles northeast of Flagstaff. You drop down out of the 7000+ level a bit into another high plain. You are still over 5000 feet. This is a pueblo built over 900 years ago. You could see in the distance the Painted Desert. The distinction we are learning is that there were pit houses, built on level ground and dug down a few feet, cliff dwellings where the rock formation formed the roof protection and the floor of the dwellings either one or multi-story places and the pueblos are built on top of a mesa or hill and rise up using the rocks as the backs of the structure but rising above the top. This one is a pueblo. It also had a specific built ball court about 100 years down the hill with walls that enclosed the court. They are not sure how the game was played but it clearly was important. Not information on who held the naming rights to the stadium:)

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Path to the ball court

Path to the ball court

Sassy by Dave Hileman

We have not seen too many animals on this trip, actually hardly any despite being in several parks for an extended time. In the Vally of Fire State Park (NV) we found a small herd of 7 Big Horn Sheep. This one was not the oldest but he walked up closer to whee I was shooting and then stared at me while chewing a bit of grass he had foraged. We looked at each other for a minute or two and then he went back to paying no attention until the herd scooted away with him the last to leave.

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Hiking the Ice Box Canyon by Dave Hileman

On Monday morning - early - we drove to Red Rocks Canyon and after a few stops along the way we stopped to hike the Ice Box Canyon. We also stoped and walked at the Calico Hills, White Rock and a couple of overlooks. The goal was a canyon hike and Ice box was great. You start off across the desert for a 1/2 mile or so, slightly up and over a rocky base. There are a few plants but more rocks, then as the trail steepens a bit more small shrubs and trees appear. Some were flowering. We passed some folks who were preparing to climb the rock face. About 1/2 you drop down into the dry creek bed and then it gets really rocky and you have to scramble up and over and around a lot of boulders. By the way it is very dry with no measurable rain or snow for over 240 days. From here to the end you cross larger and larger rocks until the end of the canyon where in more normal times there is a bit of water. The name for the trail come from the slightly cooler temps than the desert. It was not cool as by late morning on our return it was 98 degrees. And windy.

Red Rocks is well named.

Red Rocks is well named.

Entry to the Ice Box

Entry to the Ice Box

Along the creek bad

Along the creek bad

More obstacles

More obstacles

Find the two climbers.

Find the two climbers.

Castle Mountains National Monument #284 by Dave Hileman

This is a rare park that we did not actually step foot in the park. We drove several miles on rough roads to get as close as possible but you need serious off-road capacity to actually get to the mountains. I don’t think the little Kona (or the rental agreement) would fare well here. The Castles are on the extreme eastern end of the Mojave Preserve but are a separate park according to the arcane rules of the NPS. We saw no wildlife on the 13 or so miles we drove and lots of desert plants. It is a very inhospitable place.

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Number 285 Was a Challenge (5 Photos) by Dave Hileman

On our way into Las Vegas our plan was to stop and hike at the Red Rocks Canyon. That did not work out as weekends are reservation only not just for the drive but for which hike you wish to take. So we decided to save that for Monday morning before 8 when no reservations are required. Since it was too early to check in we opted for the Tule Springs Fossil Beds National Monument. That is a lot to get on a sign. I got the location in the GPS and we set off for north LV. About a mile or so from where we thought the turn might be, the road was closed. We are still in a neighborhood so we took the detour except it had no outlet from the gated development. Turning around we tried to find a street that would lead there, no luck. We finally stopped a man walking and he gave us directions. Good thing we ignored them, he was not close. I kept poking around streets, lots of them dead end then we found one that led to some folks working and I got out to ask them where we might go to get to Tule Springs. Turns out it was them. Actually staff and volunteers working a clean up for a trail. The park is new, authorized in 2014 and we met the first Superintendent working on the team, Derek. He directed us over some rock piles and into the washes that comprise a large portion of the park. We took a few photos, walked a mile or so, but, again, it is early days, no VC and not much to do yet. Unless you wish to volunteer. Apparently they do that right as they were the number one park of all NPS units for volunteers. We met some of them and they gave us a patch and a magnet with the logo. It was a fun experience and we enjoyed chatting with Derek who is headed to Fayetteville soon for a Reserve stint.

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One of the enthusiastic volunteers

One of the enthusiastic volunteers

work truck retuning from the trail.

work truck retuning from the trail.

BREAKING NEWS ---ALERT---BREAKING NEWS by Dave Hileman

We interrupt this somewhat chronological travel blog to bring exciting news to all. Bird Species Number 397 has been spotted. And it is a very special long-sought bird, a Burrowing Owl. Four of them to be precise. Found in a large lot managed by the Audubon Club here where three small colonies of these birds were threatened by encroaching housing and the owner has put it trust to the club. Anyway this was my second serious attempt this trip and about five efforts in the past with no results, but today. Yay. I might get a second post up for Monday or two Tuesday but I was excited.

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Unprepared by Dave Hileman

Actually in two ways. First, I was not prepared to take nighttime star photos. No tripod, no experience and not sure of much. But we were sitting on a rock near Zabriskie Point waiting for the night sky and I could not resist trying. Obviously I got “something.” I was also unprepared for the number and intensity of the stars. Cindy could see them better and earlier than I but as the night deepened, they sprang out everywhere, horizon to horizon.

“The LORD merely spoke, and the heavens were created. He breathed the word, and all the stars were born.” Psalm 33:6 NLT

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Welcome by Dave Hileman

Well, Death Valley is not actually too welcoming! Imagine crossing in a wagon on this and much more as this is the main valley but there are three more just inside of the park! We entered from Lone Pine, CA over ridge after ridge along Route 190 in the Northwestern edge and out on 178 the extreme Southeastern point. We were in the park about 140 miles, it was 98 degrees and dusty. On road out we passed one car coming toward us in 50 miles. The roads in and out were spectacular driving. I loved it even in the clunky rental.

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Hiding Behind These Rocks? by Dave Hileman

400 movie and television shows that were filmed in the Alabama Hills at the base of Mt. Whitney just a couple of miles from the town of Lone Pine, CA. I will post more on this place but we were captivated by the area and the little town. Movies ranged from Tom Mix westerns around 1929/30 to Iron Man and Man of Steel. John Wayne made a score of movies here and we stayed in the same hotel as he did. You can stay in his old room or in the historic section of the hotel. We opted for the 1960’s wing that was recently redone. Very nice. We did spend time in the old hotel lobby and ate an amazing breakfast this morning that we picked up up across the street and enjoyed the courtyard all to ourselves. Today was a long day in Death Valley, we drove more than 150 miles just in the park. It is big. More tomorrow.

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Manzanar War Relocation Camp by Dave Hileman

A euphemism for what was done to the Japanese Americans living - sometimes for generations in the Western portion of the United States when war was declared after Pearl Harbor., This camp housed 10,00 people in decent but not ideal housing but it was still a form of prison. They grew 80% of their food! That is the Sierra Nevada range and Mount Whitney in the background the highest in the lower 48 states at just a bit over 14,500. I don’t think the beautiful scenery was any compensation to those folks who were not treated fairly. Many left the camps by joining the army!

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Faded (2 photos) by Dave Hileman

We detoured on our fall trip to see the town of Vivian, LA. It is in the northwest corner of Louisiana a stones toss from Texas. The town, much like this mural to promote pride in the local high school is well past its glory years and most of the town was empty or faded. We met some nice folks, however, and that is sort of why we were here. Our friend, Janet’s (of Rusty and Janet fame) father was born here leaving home about 70 years ago not to return except to visit. Stan was a gem of a man, solid Christian, clever, a builder, an engineer by profession, a master gardener and just a delight to be with and we wanted to see where he was from. And the place where character was forged. These towns may appear faded but the legacy of small towns and farms and villages endure in the people who called them home. We could use a lot more people like Stan Davenport.

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Open roof arenas are nothing new to Vivian.

Open roof arenas are nothing new to Vivian.