Alaska Journey Day 58 by Dave Hileman

The Day We Did Fly!

In Alaska, so far, our experiences have exceeded expectations. We flew with Bear Adventures to Katmai National Park (number 23?) hoping to see some Coastal Brown bear - same as Grizzly but with a different diet so they are a bit larger. We landed at a beach in Katmai that our pilot, Ben, was watching for the bear to return with the arrival of the salmon. He saw three from the air so he took a chance and we landed on the rocky beach. We walked 200 yards and saw a sow and two older cubs, nearly full grown. Before we had settled in, a wolf appeared up over the dune and the bears took off chasing it, right past us. The wolf immediately went back over the dune and we did not see it race down the beach. The bears came back to the stream to fish 200 feet from us and worked their way further upstream. We watched them for about 20 minutes. Walking farther we came across two bears about 4 or 5 years old, possibly siblings, according to Ben. We moved a bit toward them and sat to watch them fishing in the edge of the ocean. They were 150 yards away at first but gradually moved toward us. When they started following the river, we went across the dunes upstream and sat to wait - the bears soon were back in sight on the opposite side of the stream. We watched them fish inexpertly. Then they became agitated. They were huffing and backing away. Coming up the stream toward us on our side of the river was a huge bear, and these younger ones knew to give him space. This bear walked 25 feet from where I was shooting photos. He continued up the stream and we went back across the dunes again. He stopped to fish and caught a salmon at once. We watched him enjoy his dinner. He tried for another one and missed, then ambled off out of sight. Back at the plane we took off from the beach into a strong headwind. Ben chose to take us over a volcano that had a deep frozen lake in the cone. Stunning. After dinner and ice cream, we returned to the trailer and, exhausted, we were quickly asleep. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I am just an amazing pilot. I had Ben sit next to me just in case. Unfortunately, Ben did not have a neat hat. I landed us on a beach. Who knew I had such a touch! The guides and a couple of others, Dave and Val, were all agog over another batch of antler-less animals. But I went to search out Moose. None to be found. Where could they be this was perfect Moosy habitat. Just as well as I am still in the R&R stage. And I needed to be at my best to get that plane off the beach. Needless to say, I did so with aplomb. And we had ice cream on the way home. No Birch though.

From 25 feet! Stay with me by this time next year I’ll be telling about the time I had to move my camera for him to pass:)

From 25 feet! Stay with me by this time next year I’ll be telling about the time I had to move my camera for him to pass:)

Chasing Salmon

Chasing Salmon

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Our way home

Our way home

Deadly Beauty by Dave Hileman

Alaska has no poisonous snakes so they had to come up with other creative ways to kill you. This is Monks Hood - there are other names but this is the one I recall. Choose the flower to add to you salad or brew a tea and you will be dead in about 6 hours. There is also Devils Club it is abundant and very nasty and Cows Parsnip is even more abundant. I brushed against some while wearing shorts and had three unpleasant and very inflamed sores that lasted more than a week.

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Alaska Journey Day 57 by Dave Hileman

The Day We Did Not Fly

Up really early and off to the airport. We were orientated, fitted with hip waders and safety vests when the flights were canceled. So we went to a coffee shop, Two Sisters, where we had excellent pastries. It became a day of short hikes and bird viewing. Homer has interesting little places to explore. At Oceans & Islands National Wildlife VC we saw great exhibits, and we took a short guided walk and learned about some of the plants. And I got another new bird, Orange Crowned Warbler. Two other walks on the bluffs had little wildlife but clearing views of the mountains and fields of the state flower, Fireweed, everywhere. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Such a disappointment - we went to the plane lot and sat in an office and then went home. What? The only good part was seeing the guides get into these giant boot things. Another clear advantage for Moose is long, stately legs we don’t need to cover up to walk across a pond. We are also superior swimmers. One of my most outstanding abilities is the 100 yard Knee-Twitch stroke. In fact, I would have gone to the 2015 Moose Comprehensive Games if I had known how to fly back then. I expect to take another day or two off and then get back to the Moose Rights Lecture Circuit. Also, I want to stay so the ladies get a chance to write back to me. And still waiting for the Minions from Mr. Mook. Especially needed if BdB does not soon get back. How hard can it be to find the fields of shirts?

Sandhill Crane coming in for a landing

Sandhill Crane coming in for a landing

Orange-Crowned Warbler

Orange-Crowned Warbler

Alaska Journey Day 56 by Dave Hileman

The Day the Noise was Gone

Started calling repair places about 7:30. Struck out five times before the sixth place gave me an option, The Best Shop. They work on big rigs but will do an RV and they had an opening. Turned out to be a brake issue. Best Shop had the parts and we were on our way by noon to Homer. We stopped on the way at Ninilchik, an old Russian village. Some very old buildings - their fishing fleet is still called the Russian Fleet. Met a boat captain, Mike, who gave us a lot of information about commercial fishing in the area and Jim Lee, an ivory carver. The view to Homer was obscured with thick smoke from area fires. We checked in for our morning flight to see the bears at Alaska Bear Adventure. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I met another boat captain, he also had a beard. Maybe I would look even better with one? I liked his hat. The guides seemed anxious about a little plane - I am excited because it means I can fly again. I know I should get back on the Moose Rights program but I needed a rest. After all the new information and speaking several times to “city” Moose, you just need to refresh. Think I will go find a good maple latte or birch even. Where is that bison?

The Russian Fleet

The Russian Fleet

Russian Orthodox Church dates from about 1900 over looks the village

Russian Orthodox Church dates from about 1900 over looks the village

Mike’s Boat, the Maestro

Mike’s Boat, the Maestro

Alaska Journey Day 55 by Dave Hileman

The Day of the Noise

Enjoyed the well done and informative VC near Portage Glacier at the Chugach National Forest on our way into the Kenai. A confusing map (I’m sure we did not make a mistake) lengthened our hike from 1.5 to 3.5 miles but it was level ground. Zero birds, zero animals. But Cindy did get to climb up and through the fence at an elevated walkway. 

In Soldotna, about 15 miles from our planned stay, a bearing started screeching. We stopped and, after confirming the issue, encamped at Fred Meyer just down the street with several others - one running a very loud generator that I hope soon stops. Going to try and find help in the morning.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I spent the day writing notes to the multitude of beautiful female Moose who are hanging on my every word and clearly adore me. I just need to choose who to take on a date to the marsh. BdB is not back yet, what could take so long, those shirts are everywhere. The guides looked at ice again. And we are sitting in a noisy parking lot. I can barely get my writing done. I may have to walk around and intimidate a few folks with my magnificent antlers. One of my most outstanding qualities. 

Baby Moose near Anchorage

Baby Moose near Anchorage

Alaska Journey Day 54 by Dave Hileman

The Walk Along the Water Day

After church we stopped at the Potter Marsh, a birding mecca in Anchorage. Two very experienced birders there provided us with a host of options in town. After lunch we headed toward Campbell Creek Estuary, then to a a coastal walk and finally to a moose spotting site near the airport. I added two new birds and we saw four moose, two male and one mother with her baby. Finished the day with a brief visit to a fish hatchery where we spotted an American Dipper - not new but neat. We also viewed very large red salmon trying unsuccessfully to scale the dam. And a repeat stop at Wild Scoops. Nice easy day. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

How are we going to use the Tee-shirt information to advance Moose Rights? How hard can this be once we deciphered the code? Since the Open Secret Communiques show how the HPs know to whom they should speak and with whom they agree and given that Moose images are the only universally delightful shirts, we simply add Moose to all the shirts. For example, you might see a person wearing a shirt that says “I Love Harvard” shirt, a universally despised article that you would normally shun. But if you add a beautiful Moose image to that shirt, others will flock to you and smile at you. So, first step to enlisting full HP support of Moose Rights is to infiltrate wherever they are growing these shirts, garment farms I guess, and slip in Moose.

An aside we passed an ICE Rink and and ICE arena today. Still perplexed about the ICE stuff. 

Now that I have solved the first step, I will send BdB out to find the garment fields. That should be easy. 

Lincoln Sparrow (New Bird)

Lincoln Sparrow (New Bird)

Greater Yellow Legs Pirouette

Greater Yellow Legs Pirouette

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Alaska Journey Day 53 by Dave Hileman

The Chore Day

We washed tons of dirt from truck and trailer, had an oil change, endured the Post Office, did laundry, got my Mac issue resolved at Alaska’s only Apple store, explored downtown Anchorage and the excellent visitor centers for information on hiking trails, researched churches for Sunday, moved the camper to a full service site. I did not take a  photo with my main camera for the first time this trip (couple with the iPhone). We enjoyed a delightful meal at Tequila 61. Mexican featuring local seafood - very special. We were so full we skipped ice cream. Oh my, send help something is wrong with the Hilemans. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

So what is the t-shirt mystery? Open Secret Communiques.  “Open” because they are out in the air, “Secret” because you must attend indoctrination classes for years, “Communique” because, well I am not going to spell out everything for you. It is obvious once you begin to understand the HP. I will grant you the example that the chauffeurs provide for me is either deeply disturbed or mis-aligned with reality most of the time. But I persevered and ferreted out the truth usually kept for the indoctrination period that occurs for miniature HP’s when the buses unload them at various herding centers. I digress. The HP are clearly simple organisms and have a difficult time sharing with or even identifying their peer groups. Unlike we gregarious and engaging Moose who are related to, well, all other Moose, so maybe that makes it easier? I digress. Anyway to make sharing easier they adopt a shirt that says “I was here” or “I was indoctrinated here” or “I am a dolt and not to be trusted.” As they process down a street, they note others with their tribal emblems and can engage in “Small Talk” (not sure on that point) with them and not be threatened. For example, they see someone with a shirt that says, NCSU. So if you are NCSU or Raleigh you have instant rapport, if they are, say, App State and you are distant from the Home Base, it does not matter and you engage with good results. If, however you are very close to Home Base with the same combination of T’s you must ignore or belittle their choice. See, it is a challenge to unravel. Same is true for destination The rude and stupid tees separate wearers into various castes with the clever ones ruling over all. Only the Moose shirt seems to garnish universal acclamation. You are likely marveling about my outstanding ability to decipher complex social norms. It is OK to be impressed. Tomorrow - how to use our inside information to advance Moose Rights. 

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Birthday Dessert

Birthday Dessert

Cadillac leading the Lu Lu Belle through the ice bergs

Cadillac leading the Lu Lu Belle through the ice bergs

Alaska Journey Day 51 by Dave Hileman

The Denali Day Five: Exit

Last night we were visited by the camp hosts who are also from NC. The were on their first year of this adventure, here from May 19 to Sept 19. They were very encouraging about the time they have spent and sounds like they have sufficient time off duty to explore the park and enjoy their time in Denali. Intriguing to be sure. We walked the river wearing our boots in the AM, saw moose tracks, big and little. On the way out we viewed 4 moose. We also tried a hike but turned back, rain and cold. On the way south we stopped to see Denali again this time viewed the top left and the top right. Someday they will add up to a whole mountain. A stop at Telkeetna for some shopping and dinner & ice cream and then back to Wasilla for the night at the Transportation Museum.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

My most outstanding day of speeches. The Moose kept coming - not as a group, but they were coming to hear about Moose Rights. Clearly I am captivating the population in Denali. I am now moving south and next week plan to speak to scores in the area. BdB assures me that the Moose are coming. His excellent work spreading posters in the willows will pay off. He is learning some fine skills, especially for a Bison. I was able to convince the guides to stop near the Birch Ice Cream store. Heavenly. Did you know they also make Birch Soda? Score one for the Moose. 

These animals are really big and this one is 15 yards off the road and yet it is still hard to see.

These animals are really big and this one is 15 yards off the road and yet it is still hard to see.

Our shortened walk was down this little valley.

Our shortened walk was down this little valley.

Alaska Journey Day 52 by Dave Hileman

The Flower Day

CITY! Anchorage arrival early afternoon with gas and grocery at reasonable prices. Parked for the night at Alaska Botanical Gardens, a Harvest Host location. We went to the gardens to support the Harvest Host business (CJH also supported their gift shop) and found beautiful flower, vegetable and herb beds along a wooded trail. The Heritage Garden recalling 1930’s settlers included a vintage truck planted with huge cabbages. Excellent local advice from the staff. After a great dinner in the trailer, we found ourselves in front of Wild Scoops. Not sure how that happened. They feature Alaskan flavors like spruce tip and fireweed. We shared the four scoop sampler: Alaskan Sea Salt Caramel, Root Beer, Lemon with snickerdoodle cookies inside and Fireweed. Outstanding as a certain moose might say.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I have been working really hard, so I am mostly taking the day off. Exhausted from all the speechifying. Stay tuned - tomorrow I’ll share the results of the initial research. I did rouse long enough to have a double scoop of BIRCH almond ice cream. I tell you birch is a gold mine under my development. I need some seed money. Hmmm? If those minions Mr. Mook sent would show up….

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Cynthia Falls by Dave Hileman

We “discovered” this falls near the top of our climb up the Cathedral Mountain. I have named it for Cindy, who was always called Cynthia by her Aunt B and Aunt B would have said, “Cynthia, I don’t know if you should go up there.” But she did, a hard climb. We packed our bear spray, some snacks, water and rain gear and started. There is no trail, just rocks and at the end, 1.8 miles up and about 55 stories according to our monitor, a very steep additional climb up the soft and spongy tundra to a ridge. But what a view..

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Alaska Journey Day 50 by Dave Hileman

The Denali Day Four: Big Ravine

We still have Tek bus tickets just not guaranteed seats a plus for staying here. There were two seats on the second bus we tried and off we went to hike. The issue here is you can hike anywhere and there are few trails. Everyone kept saying just go hike. But it is 6 million acres, formidable mountains, wolves et al, so just hike WHERE? Finally a driver said she really liked the first ravine up Cathedral Mountain. Settled. We started up the ravine as soon as we got off the bus. There is no trail but we followed the creek. The mountains rose cathedral like (appropriate for the name) and while rain threatened most of the day it did not rain. It was cool and a tad windy. The whole way was just jumbles of rocks, large and small so caution was the word of the day. We climbed higher and the air was cooler but we were still not at the top. At 1.7 miles and more than 2 hours we chose to almost stop. There was a ridge there that we climbed in the springy tundra. No overarching view emerged but still breathtaking. Neat flowers everywhere both on the tundra and in the rock crevices. Like they were there just for us. We were very aware of bears and moose but saw none. However, as we descended four Dall sheep crested one of the ridges and we got a wonderful view. The mom even stopped to nurse a baby for a bit. Just too cool. We were quite tired when we got back to the road and glad the first bus past had two seats. Post dinner we took a late day walk back on the river. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I have cracked the Tee code but not the ice fascination. I’ll share my brilliant analysis tomorrow or the next day too much to finish right now. More speeches today, while the audiences are small they are enraptured. Rhetoric is one of my most outstanding characteristics. They are slowly catching the Moose Rights idea. BdB is signing up workers and protestors to use when the timing is ripe. Zero latte day so I am a bit shaky. Meanwhile, the guides went solo up a canyon with no mention of lunch or dinner. Nice moosey waters all over and they troop up a canyon. Sheesh.

Looking back down the ravine.

Looking back down the ravine.

Feeding time

Feeding time

Alaska Journey Day 49 by Dave Hileman

The Denali Day Three: Bus

At the bus stop just after seven. (Disney World?!?) Our bus was not too full and the seats were actually better than expected. We lumbered off down the gravel interior highway toward Wonder Lake near mile 90. The ride is the event. It is slow, dusty and a bit noisy punctuated by excellent wildlife spotting by bus driver who slows, stops and backs up - very aware of the photography goals. Wildlife abundant. Each trip varies. We saw: 7 grizzlies (two groups of three and a single very near to the bus), many caribou including a large calving herd, Ptarmigan, Dall sheep, one moose, a golden eagle, marmot, arctic and ground squirrels. We stopped at the Eielson Center where we took a brief hike in the tundra. So needed to change buses to a full one. Dinner was eggs and rhubarb pie. We did see most of Denali Peak - only 30% of visitors to the park see the mountain due to cloud formation. Spectacular day. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I went on a bus today, just like the miniature HPs do going to school. Great opportunity to further my research. The peering in the bus is epidemic with nearly everyone poking their devices out the windows. You can understand them wishing to see the regal moose and even the less stellar antlered caribou but the excitement centers around an antler-less cumbersome creature called a grizzly. Eh. Hard to see the Tees today because the HPs were layered up. Rats. BUT I did get to visit with some Moose Cousins. I got out at the best places and delivered a fine speech on Moose Rights to an attentive audience. Some even briefly stopped munching willow in the most riveting parts of my talk. So, no progress on the HP-O front but Moose Rights was advanced. I had BdB go back to some semblance of civilization and bring me a latte. It was cold but he tried.

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Alaska Journey Day 48 by Dave Hileman

The Denali Day Two: Older

We are in! After a process to confirm reservations and rules, we stopped at the Savage River to take a short hike. Returning here is beyond the limits of our “Tek ticket” for the transport bus. A very pretty walk of two miles along the river bed. Nice views. Once in camp we explored a bit of our new home. A walk on tundra revealed a tiny clear stream amidst the willow and spruce. We found the glacial braided Teklanika River just past our campground loop and wandered around the rocks. Many different paths push rocks along its wide bed. We had a great dinner: pork chops on the grill, corn, potatoes, rhubarb, fresh fruit and for dessert cake and ice cream. Camping is rough. Evening activity was getting packed for tomorrow - 12 hours on a bus. I spotted and photographed a Willow Ptarmigan a “goal” bird of mine. All in all an excellent birthday.  

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Confusing day here in the Alaska. We drove a couple of miles and left behind T-shirt stores, ice, coffee shops, pie: everything that makes life for the HPs meaningful. The peering even tapered off? We are in a little Capsule Lot. No airplanes no boats. Grasping what motivates these guides is so difficult. Apparently we had a celebration as well. In the strange event (except for ice cream and cake) a Tee-Shirt was presented to the Driver by the Nice Guide. It was a geographic focus shirt with long arms and esoteric symbols. I need to nail the code; maybe this is the Rosetta Stone of the ritual. I will evaluate carefully. 

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Alaska Journey Day 47 by Dave Hileman

The Denali Day # One

The entrance to Denali is a bit off the park road that goes from Anchorage to Fairbanks and is the destination of most of the N/S traffic that we see. The VC was helpful and we got situated for the next morning as we will drive 31 miles into the park and stay three days at the campground. No moving your vehicle is allowed once you are in site. No services either but we hope the scenery is amazing. We spent a bit of time in the bookstore and took a 2 mile walk around the area. We also scoped out a hike for morning to a lake. Tonight is refill & refuel so we have empty tanks and full batteries for our three days. We also hope to stop at a WiFi place in the AM. If you are reading this it might have worked.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I may have been a wee bit excited yesterday, but just think a whole new flavor spectrum and I am sure it will sweep the nation. My analysis is carefully weighing relative aspects of the sorting process. The Tees are: sports related -32%, location centered - 21%, school related -2%, brand adverts -11.9%, (beer as a subset is 6% of brand), rude - 10.5%, stupid - 9.2575%, clever - 3%, very wonderful with a moose on the shirt - .3425%.

Lots of questions remain but several of these are correlated to weight & age. None of them mention ice, so that ritual is just mysterious. New things are emerging in my HP-O work. The peering is growing to epidemic proportions as the peerage people seem to congregate around certain geographic points - and often with ice. If I can crack the code and use these commoners for good, we can advance Moose Rights quickly. 

Did I mention about he birch ice cream? I thought I might have. Well I need a good nights sleep because something is up with the Guides, much preparation and the Driver had two different t-shirts on today. Also BdB went back to the village to get me some more birch ice cream. 

Fishing in the evening light

Fishing in the evening light