Alaska Journey Day 34 /
The Interesting People Day
We were late for the moose viewing in the park due to work, REALLY, but we made the trip. No moose. Back at the campsite, we prepared to leave but took advantage of decent WiFi and post office and a few other details of life on the road. CJH and I walked the grounds of the Hart D Ranch owned by Mary Frances DeHart (wildlife artist, sculptor, RV and hotel proprietor, postmistress, hunting guide (one of the first female licensed in Alaska) entrepreneur, mechanic, champion dog breeder, fisherman, wildlife processor and much more. She has been here more than 60 years (electricity arrived in 2009) and, now on her own, takes care of this whole property. Quite a lady. We drove south on the Tok cut-off through endless frost heaves and 13 miles of dirt road (construction on-going) that would put a Disney adventure ride to shame. At one “dip ahead” sign the white SUV I was following 60 feet behind just disappeared. At Glennallen, we bought gas and a few groceries then stopped at the Wrangell-St. Elias NP Visitor Center 2 minutes before closing. Guess we will go back. We did do a one mile walk on a trail. It is hot here, 83 today, 86 yesterday, and smoke from distant fires obscures the mountains. We are in the Squirrel Creek Rec. Area for the night. Stream a few yards left of us and overlooking a lake 100 feet right of our site.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
Oh no! Who knew this park had two entrances and we were in the wrong one. I can’t trust this Driver to get me anywhere I'm supposed to be on time. Now we are two days from the correct place and I have things scheduled for tomorrow. Most Moose are not as forgiving and patient as I am, will they wait another day? My brilliant idea is to send BdB off early - he seems to get where he belongs, maybe he should drive, anyway, he will take several gallons of coffee ice cream and that ought to keep the Moose in place. Nothing goes according to my finely wrought and nearly perfect planning. I need better minions. Wonder if D. Mook has a few he doesn’t need at the moment.
Lots of these kind of places on the highway. This one is for sale (as are most)
Gas Stop at the Hart D Ranch
Cozy Cottage for sale, Nice loft, open floor plan, Beautiful bucolic setting, listen to the patter of rain on your own tin roof. Priceless.
Alaska Journey Day 33 /
The Avian Day
Walking around our campsite this morning early I spotted a Swainson’s Thrush which I had only seen one time before. Our first stop this morning while heading down the Tok Cutoff was along a lake. Great stop. Got a Mew Gull (first time) and a Red-throated Grebe (first time), some neat ducks and a family of Trumpeter Swan with four little ones. Arriving at Wrangell-St Elias National Park at the Nebesca Road entrance, we found a campsite 1/4 mile away that has WiFi! Then we were off on the 36 mile gravel road. Most of the scenery was obscured by smoke from fires near Fairbanks drifting down. The road was close in on both sides with smaller spruce trees. We hiked down to a lake, but nothing on the lake. It was steep, hot (86 degrees) and buggy and the footing was soft and often wet. Not a pleasant walk but rather short. Repeated at two more lakes - less walking as we could see nothing on them. Then spotted a bird just off the road, turned out to be a Spotted Sandpiper. Lovely. I “may” have seen the winter version but I never identified it as it is dull gray and looks like several other sandpipers in winter. In breeding colors it was easy to ID and a beautiful bird. (first time) We stopped at a larger lake, walked the perimeter and I saw a Bohemian Waxwing, Cedar’s larger, slightly disreputable and artistic northern cousin. (first time) Four new birds in a single day, wow. I may have two more but haven’t identified them yet, pictures were taken but they are dark and id will not be easy.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
Well I did it! Indeed perseverance, fortitude, confidence and Bull Moose Party spirit got me to actual Alaska. I prevailed over all the attempts to dissuade me from my goal. I have rescheduled the first Great Moose Rights Rally because of the unreasonable delays in getting here but I am here and surely the Moose will be excited and come on a different date. The big first event on the Grand Alaskan Tour is in just two days. I need to prepare. Of course the speech is ready but I need to look my best so I need to find a nice swampy bog. I also sent BdB out for security purposes to secure a great site. What a new and glorious day for the advancement of Moose Rights. Not even the appalling lack of ice cream and lattes have me discouraged. But I do miss the necessities of life. No sacrifice is too great.
Spotted Sandpiper
Mew Gull
Red-necked Grebe
Happy July Fourth from Alaska - land of no fireworks. /
Alaska Journey Day 32 /
The Up and Down Day
We were on the road before seven (not by much) on a mostly travel day. First stop was in Haines Junction for gas where they had coffee, good Seattle’s Best coffee. Excellent start to the day that went downhill. And up. The road from here to Tok, Alaska is not good. Lots of frost heaves some marked, some “oopsy we forgot!” The road went up and down mountains and passes and the surface of the road did the same. There was a lot of smoke and haze from forest fires north of us. We stopped at several viewpoints, the best a small pond in the massive Teslin Wildlife Preserve, the largest in Alaska, where millions of birds live in the summer. I spotted some swan but there was no safe place to stop so I never got the photo. We walked a lake shore and saw an American Widgeon mom and her babies, some gull, heard loon, a nice walk. We also trudged down a hill to see a trappers cabin from the early 1900s, a welcome spot to spend the night in harsh conditions. We finally arrived in Tok, bought gas and groceries and went a few miles further toward tomorrow’s destination to camp at the Eagle Trail State Rec Area. Tiring day. Oh, and the water thing came loose, not broken, and I tightened it. Hero!
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
Well, we are supposedly in Alaska - again. Not buying it. No siree-bog, not going down that road again. We will be in Puerto Rico or Guam or Orlando tomorrow. First it is 89 degrees. Canada-frozen lakes, killer polar bears, Alaska-ice bergs and snowshoes. So you think I can’t tell that I am HOT? Next you will be telling me that “baked Alaska” is a thing. So, not fooling me again. I sent BdB into the wilderness to find something in a package to eat. Who can live on salmonberries? No email to explain how I won’t be coming to the rallies. Tens of thousands of Moose, broken hearted. I’m so depressed.
Alaska Journey Day 31 /
A Bearable Day
We slept in to almost 6:15. Light comes up here well before 4. Before we left the campground we went back to Chilkoot to photograph what we could find. One eagle posed nicely. Then we rode to the end of the highway, another mile or so. I spied a really neat yellow boat and the owner was out sitting in a lawn chair so when I turned around I stopped and asked if he would mind me taking a photo of the boat. He said, “You don’t want to photograph the bear?” A bear. On the beach. Super cool. The man’s daughter came out - she is a school teacher living in Maine home for the summer and she was shooting as well. Nice people and great view of the bear. Their stories of bears and whales and more were exceptional. He has lived in this spot for 40 years. After we packed up we started again for interior Alaska. Back into Canada again, BC then Yukon. We stopped early at a beautiful lake for a $12 campsite so we could rest a bit - just drove 2.5 hours. Cooking dinner with a million dollar view. Some of it is obscured because of a large forest fire in BC a great distance away. Still gorgeous.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
We were rolling again. Canada - sneak across the boarder, British Columbia, Yukon same old drill. Then we stopped. We hardly started. And we are sitting by a lake, that’s the good part and they are settling in for the night. No WiFi here, no email, no coffee shops for miles and we are still not at the rally spots. I’m going to go sit in the lake and sulk. Don’t talk to me. BdB can come and guard the beach so no one comes near.
Random /
Our tiny cottage in Sitka.
Ranger Deborah who clearly adored Cadillac
Wildfloer flowers at our lunch stop on the Alcan Highway
Our captain “steering” the ferry, Cadillac’s inspiration for his new job
Enjoying lemon pound cake and strawberries under her electric throw that Laura got her. Nice and cozy
Installation of the Two Lane Touring sign in the sign forest. Historic Reenactment.
Alaska Journey Day 30 /
The Cold Killer Mob Day
Up at 4:30 and taxied to the airport, through security and off to Juneau where we landed at 6:20. First task after a bus into town, find food and coffee. We did at the Sandpiper. An excellent breakfast and lots of decent coffee. We then went a short distance (good because we are carrying a lot of stuff) to the Alaska State Museum. A class place sharing a building with the state archives. They glossed over the Russian history - we saw a lot more at Sitka - but did a good job on native and recent events. Nice section on WWII that I knew little about. We then took a taxi to our bus to stow the luggage until a four o’clock departure. In the afternoon we walked some of the streets, poked in a few shops and the walked through two floors of the Capital Building. Then down to the dock where we “caught” dinner at the Hanger Pub and Grill with a view of the water where the seaplanes land and enjoyed a Halibut burger. CJH ate Halibut Chowder. The bus took us to the ferry dock, about 10 miles from downtown and we rode the Fjordlands ferry to Haines. We saw two historic lighthouses, one humpback whale, I added a new bird - a Marbled Murrelet and, just as we were almost to Haines, a pod of Killer Whale appeared, at least 6 maybe 10 to 12. We had a fairly close view for 10 minutes as the ferry shut off the engines and we drifted along with them. We got into our trailer about 8:30. Fun day.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
The guides began their day at a reasonable hour, finally. Back to the plane parking lot. I have perfected my approach to flying and had no difficulty driving the airplane for them to Juneau. I left them plodding down the sidewalk with their gear before they could ask me to carry it. Another factor in favor of Moosiness, no bags of stuff. Exceptions are made for doughnuts. I explored this tiny town they claimed was the capital of Alaska. Hah, you got to get up before 3AM to fool me. It was way too small and you cannot drive a car there. That’s nuts. No one would but a capital there, just another ruse on the Great Alaska Complex Deception. I was headed to the plane lot when I noted the guides on a bus with different designation. It had a made up word FJORD. Tricky. But I still followed them. Sleuthiness is one of my most outstanding characteristics. We then got on a boat. Bully! I watched carefully and with my natural buoyancy I would be a fabulous boat driver. And you use your feet and I have four so even better. They get a neat hat too. Since the flyer and the boat leaders are both captains and they get swell hats, I will be both when I finish Moose Rights. BdB was waiting patiently for me and was overjoyed that I retuned. I think he will be pleased I brought him some new grass. Now how to get to the real Alaska?
Alaska Journey Day 29 /
The Small Flower - Big Mountain Day
We had a cool treat today as Deborah, a NP ranger had a day off and offered to show us around Sitka. So we met at a coffee shop at 8:30 and went to the end of the road at Blue Lake and picked salmonberries near there as well. Then to the opposite end of the available road and up. Way up on a narrow and rocky road. We were on Harbor Mountain. We did not go too far on any trail but did a bit of exploring and found blooming flowers everywhere. It was neat to walk on the boggy ground known as muskeg. The water and mountaiviews were endless and the air crisp with the scent of spruce. We photographed many different kinds that I likely will end up calling by the color but I am going to try and find some names. Deborah, who did not know of my underserved and completely unwarranted reputation, asked me to drive down the long mountain road. I kept it under 80 the whole way. We enjoyed a very nice lunch at the Beak and then we were on our own but with great memories of places we couldn’t have known about or traveled to without our new friend. We - and most of you will not believe this line - are headed out tonight to take more photos around the docks. But first we are walking to McDonalds because the rumor is that it’s the only place you can buy decent ice cream in Sitka after 5 pm and Tillamook Ice Cream is way better than good.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
Today would have been a disaster. Utterly. Except for Ranger Deborah, who clearly adores me. So she spent her whole day taking me to see places that I might later use for Moose Rights speeches. She interviewed me all day about the rights campaign plans and looked hard for Moose but we did not see any in this non-mooselike area of the Alaska Complex. She did see that I got multiple lattes and directed me to a great ice cream dessert. I also cleverly gleaned from her that if the guides go a certain way we would see many Moose. I am working now to determine a course of action. Deborah and I had to part and I am sure she is very sad. Heartbroken probably. When I return in triumph to reach the small and downtrodden Moose population in this area, I will tell BdB to allow Deborah on the platform. That will be special for her.
Totem /
One of the Tlingit totems at the Sitka National Historic Park. The first Russian bishop was a wise man. The Tlingit worshipped a “power” and had lots of stories of creation etc, so this man translated the Bible and the Tlingit responded to the additional revelation becoming Russian Orthodox - still today, while holding to their culture and stories. Interesting contrast to many Western missionaries at the time who often saw culture as the enemy and creating resentment. A contrast that was vivid here when the US bought Alaska.
Alaska Journey Day 28 /
The “I Cindy” Day
We went to Hi-Liner Coffee for breakfast and it was good. Then we walked back toward our AirBnB and stopped at the Bishop’s House, one of four structures in AK that date to the Russian era. Its plain exterior belied the nice interior. The downstairs was museum and exhibits, the upstairs living quarters. It is restored to the time of Bishop’s residence in the early 1800’s. Several original pieces of furniture were there but the chapel was striking and is still used on special days by the active Russian Orthodox Church in Sitka. I write a bit more about Deborah, the ranger who conducted the tour of the living quarters. Neat person. Then we hoped on a city bus to Thimbleberry Lake and Heart Lake trail. It was about 1.6 miles in the forest and the lakes were just wonderful, blue and full of flowers and eagles. We saw nine near the lake and six more on the way back. Along the trail were Salmon Berry Bushes. I never heard of them before but we ate a dozen or so as we walked along, very tasty and sweet. We learned about them from a lady who was picking them for jam making. We bused back for a stop at the Sheldon Museum. It was instructive - vast collection of native items from all over Alaska. Walked back to our cottage and changed cloths. We then got another bus the opposite direction and ate in a tent beside the cruise ships that were docked for the day. We were clearly the poor cousins. Back again to town. Then a walk downtown to see Castle Hill and just enjoy the streets empty of most people. Long, busy day with more than 17,000 steps.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
WE ARE STILL HERE. The guides were off doing some pointless activity not even caring my time to get to the rallies was short. I started with them but they went to a moldy house. The ranger, Deborah adored me, so that was the good part. I then left the guides and spent the time writing desperate emails to key Moose. I also researched a bit more about Alaska coupled with my insightfulness and have a better understanding of the place. My working theory is that it is a land mass controlled by Russians, Canadians, Provincials, Tlingits and Americans (and possibly the Swiss or NYC cab drivers) and each have a rotating piece. That is one reason it appears in so many different places on the maps. So we are in and out of different control sectors with stations. We are clearly not in the right piece, the most Moosey one. And they thought they could fool me. Hah. I’ve figured out Alaska. So my goals are: Lattes, Ice Cream, Moose Rights, find Moosey Alaska and avoid the polar bears.
Cindy on Heart Lake. We stopped here for a lunch and had a private lake.
One of nine lunch companions saying overhead
Ripe & Delicious Salmon Berry
Boiling Glacial River /
The rushing waters converge at this point to begin a drop into a narrow canyon.
Howard Lake off the Ice Fields Parkway in AB /
Alaska Journey Day 27 /
The Totem Day
We left the ground at 7:45 with Alaska Seaplanes for Juneau. Loved the flight over the Inside Passage. The water was still and various shades of green and blue were overlaid with white wispy clouds. We were in Juneau about an hour then off to Sitka on Alaska Airlines. Two very different experiences. On the first we were picked up at our campground by the lady who would check us in. No one asked for ID, just weighed the bags and off we went. The second was the full TSI deal. Travel was nicer once. In Sitka we taxied to our little cottage on Monastery Street, emphasis on little and this from people living in 90 square feet for a month. Lovely town. No cruise ship today so not everything is open. We walked around town and then to the Sitka National Historic Park just a bit over 1/2 mile along the waterfront. The park celebrates Tlingit (clink-it) culture. There is a visitor center with native craftspeople. I really liked talking to the carver, Tommy Joseph, who is very famous for his work in Alaska. Cindy chatted with the the bead work lady. The highlight of the park is the mile walk through the rain forest with 25 or so totems. The ravens and the eagles were all high in the trees calling and the sun was out, it boarded on a magical time and place. Then we walked back to town. It was hard to find an open restaurant so we settled on the Mean Queen where I shared a pizza with Cindy for the first time in our over 50 years together. My half had no cheese. I finished the day down at the docks photographing eagles. “Just sittin’ on the dock of the bay.”
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
I knew something was afoot. I stowed away in an unused mail sack and found myself airborne again. I am such a natural pilot. This plane was bigger. The surprise came when we alit at another plane parking lot and the guides got on a very big plane. I had to scramble to figure out how to get on but I just looked very official and, as a natural leader, was able to amble right on board. Of course it was a tight fit in the storage compartment for the antlers but I squeezed in and settled down but by the time I did we were in another plane lot. I barely made it into the taxi, the guides were surprised yet most certainly pleased that I made it. We are in yet another non-Moosey environment and the Driver has no vehicle I think I detect withdrawal shakes from him. This place is nice but not what I signed up for, except for the good lattes and fresh bagels. Almost civilized here. Still, I need to get to the main part of Alaska or I will be late for my own rallies. Not good. Too much at stake. I expect we will leave in the AM as that has been the pattern. Just in case I think I will get a pilot’s hat then maybe I can drive the plane.
Alaska Journey Day 26 /
The Day the Eagles Landed
There were no church options in Haines that we were willing to try, our first Sunday to miss and it felt odd. In the morning we went to Chilkoot SP hoping to see wildlife along the lake and river. I did get to add a new bird, a Varied Thrush. I saw the bird only because there was a lady leading a nature tour and she pointed it out. I was not able to photograph it. The place was, predictably, beautiful. We watched mergansers in the river and several eagles. I got photos but not the one I want yet. We spent the afternoon doing trailer chores, laundry, some poor, spotty internet at a coffee shop and packing for Sitka. In the evening we did a hike in the rain forest that was enchanting.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
Something is up. This is not the Alaska I expected and the guides are putting clothes into a cloth satchel. I’m not worried because resourcefulness is one of my most outstanding qualities. But, hmmmm. BdB is proving, under my tutelage, to be useful. It took him a long time but he found a coffee shop for me. It is a good thing I am naturally adorable because the prices were high for the lattes. Of course, I did not have to pay and the staff all smiled at me. Now, what is causing the suspicious behavior from the guides?
Chilkoot River
The Window at Badlands NP /
What an inhospitable land for the people traveling west in wagons.
Alaska Journey Day 25 /
The South to Alaska Day
Off to AK on the Alcan again, destination Haines. Haines is 10 minutes by air from Sitka but 244 miles on the road. Whitehorse to Haines Junction was full of frost heaves, so cautious driving. We stopped beside the historic Canyon Creek Bridge for lunch. It was a corduroy bridge and one of the first bridges on the highway. The highway to Haines from the Alcan was really good smooth road and views to amaze. Again. We stopped at an overlook where we could see the world’s largest protected wilderness consisting of 4 parks, two US and two Canadian, larger than the US Northeast. We stopped to look for eagles at Chilkat Reserve and later at Chilkoot SP, where we found a few. The town of Haines is just OK. Not much open and lots that look marginal. Nice folks we have met.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
Fortunately I got us back to Alaska. Hope we stay this time. Again, where are the Moose? No advance Moose to greet me. Wondering if this is actually Alaska. And we are in a town with no ice cream and no coffee shops open on a Saturday night. I’m sending out BdB to find me something, even a Hostess cupcake, these are desperate times. I need to get on WiFi and find out what is happening because none of this adds up. Perplexed.
Paddle Ready /
Waiting for customers at Moraine Lake in Banff National Park - Canada
Alaska Journey Day 24 /
The Up in the Air Day
We made it to Alaska! State 49 for us and for them. We left the trailer in Whitehorse and drove the Klondike Road to Skagway. Superb road: lakes, mountains, alpine valleys, above the tree line for a bit and then down, what a drop, 3400 feet in 6 miles. This is the famous White Pass from the 1898 Klondike Gold Rush. That is another story. We arrived as the train that also traverses that pass was leaving town. Those folks were going to be pleased. The town has many, in fact most of the buildings are from the 1898 to 1920 era, many relocated from a nearby town, Dyea that died when the railroad opened in Skagway. The National Park oversees several of them and a nice VC. We took two tours one of the Jeff Smith’s Parlor and one of the town focused called Gold Rush 101. Ranger did an excellent job. Between the two we walked the town carefully avoiding the hoards of gem and jewelry sales people- not an easy task.
We stopped by and chatted with Kevin who brokered tours independently of the cruise lines (three ships in town and everything busy, after six, empty streets -nice). He told us about a Glacier flyover and we told him we were going to do that from Haines Sunday. Same plane, Mountain Flying Service. He checked with them and found that they were going from Skagway with two empty seats at 4:30 and offered us the substantial price reduction that occurs if you book from Haines. We took it. At 4:30 our pilot, Paul, taxied the Beaver plane off the runway and over the mountains we flew. Then we approached the glacier filled valleys and peaks of the park. At this point, Pat, I would like to buy an adjective. I can use some that I have and post a few photos but it was overwhelming. We flew very close to some, dipped below others, saw many that were miles long and 200 feet or more cliffs at sea level. We banked right in the face of Fairweather Mountain (it is 15,000 foot peak, we looked up at it) with folded snow mere yards from our wing tip. The family of four with us were from France and only one spoke English yet, while were were flying the oo’s and gasps were such we understood each other. It was a perfectly clear day, deep blue sky reflecting off the snow and lakes gave all of them a sparkling blue sheen. We were up nearly two hours for our hour and a half tour and it was still over too soon. After the flight we ate dinner at Skagway Brewing Co and then drove the 100 miles back to the trailer. A 17 hour day (all daylight at Solstice) was tiring but what a marvelous day.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
I am a bit confused. We made it to Alaska, amazing feat, driven mostly by my determination. Yet we did not stay? What? We were not even in a Moosey part. And I ought to be upset, even irked. BUT, I did something astonishing. I stowed away in a secret compartment of an airplane the guides were getting into. I thought they might be trying to escape. When I was able to free myself and look out the window I was gobsmacked. Wow. It was incredible. I was flying and I was a natural at it. I think my water buoyant fur must have also added to the sense of floating. Ice everywhere, mountains even I might not climb. It was just fantastic. I think I will become a pilot. I know I would be exceptional at piloting with my keen sense of direction, my even disposition in a crisis and my buoyant fur. I will make that a future most outstanding ability. After Moose Rights. I will not be deterred. Now, how to get back to Alaska cause we are back in Canada or Provincial or Yukon, who can keep track.
Quick Selfie of Me Flying My Plane.
Alaska Journey Day 23 /
The Need Hot Water Day
Sun. Yay. We wound across a bit of mountains and past some large pretty lakes in the fog but then the sun broke through and the road was actually smooth for the first time in about 1200 miles. I had called ahead to try and get our newly repaired and now broken again water fixed. Three places were too busy but a mobile guy, Jeff, met us at the Walmart in Whitehorse and fixed it well. It was not quite square and the stress over 800 miles of really poor road just cracked the nut that held it on. Once fixed we were too late for our original plan so found a place here to stay for two nights. Tomorrow morning we will drive south to Skagway, Alaska and the Klondike National Historic Park leaving the trailer here. Our first visit to AK. So today we washed the truck and trailer, not super carefully but got lots of caked on dirt and grime off. We walked a trail over the top of a hill near a lake, very nice and walked downtown. Slow day is nice. We ate in tonight and are catching up on several things. No internet here but lots of places in town so I can get three days posted tomorrow night. It is after nine here and it looks like three in the afternoon.
Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint
We did not travel long - I don’t know why as we are not there yet. We did stop to get some doodad fixed in the little white pill they haul around and I took advantage and enjoyed time in several cozy coffee shops. BdB sipped a latte, miracles. But then the burp. I was mortified and sent him back to the parking lot to wait. He did. There seems to be a bit of preparation and excitement with the guides tonight. Wonder what is up?
