Alaska Journey Day 22 by Dave Hileman

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The Hot Water Day

Leaving the campsite at Poplar we headed for Muncho Lake but the rain was still pouring so we could see little. Our first stop was Liard Hot Springs. I was skeptical but Cindy thought it looked like fun. The boardwalk to the springs was through a beautiful marsh. We removed our coats (it was 42-44 Degrees) that we had on over our suits and got in the spring. It was actually nice. Well, better than nice. The ground under your feet was covered with small stones and the closer you moved to the little falls the hotter the water became. It was quite hot. The steam rose from the pond and made everything misty and the banks were lush with ferns and wildflowers. No photos in the water because the water is not good for metal. You were to remove rings etc. 

Refreshed and back on the road the rain picked up again. It is hard to describe the drive. You are on a two lane road that varies from decent to Oh My! The shoulder of the road is often wide and smooth and just as often there is no shoulder at all or very little and there might be a 20 foot drop-off or 60. The really odd thing is how often and how long you are alone on the road. I would drive 15 or 20 or 30 minutes and see no car in front or behind me and only 3 or 4 coming south. For one stretch today I was passed by 4 cars in 65 miles. The gas stations are well spaced but very expensive. Many of the lodges (we would say hotel) are falling apart and closed. What you really see are trees - green carpets as far as you can see rolling up to mountains. Lots of rivers and streams. We also saw two herd of black bison, two black bear and two moose, our first moose of the trip, other than you know who, and a Lynx - very special to see one. I added a new bird, a Goshawk, really neat find. 

Our other stop was the Sign Post Forest but it is on a second post for today.

The campground we choose had space but their power was out. So I asked about dry camping and he said, “$20 in the park but free in our lot across the street.” No one who reads this blog is surprised we ended up across the street. It was then we discovered a new water issue. Stay tuned. 


Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I held my first Moose Rights Rally today! It was not too well attended and at first I was a bit disappointed but then the nice guide told me we were not in Alaska yet. That solved the attendance mystery because we are expecting big crowds. So I used the occasion (adaptability is one of my most outstanding characteristics) to practice my stump speech. Needless to say it was a hit. In fact I imagine Moose Rights Canada or Provincial or wherever we are is next on the agenda. 

Moose Rights Rally was not well attended but very attentive audience.

Moose Rights Rally was not well attended but very attentive audience.

Another amazing thing occurred mid-morning when the guides took to a Moosy environment and got into the water. I did not see them eat any Water Lillies - I would have passed out, but they seemed to enjoy the experience of lounging in the water and letting your cares seep away. Of course, if people just practiced Mooseism we would all be better off. I think there is a glimmer of hope for these two. Not that we are in Alaska yet - hope does not extend to directions. BdB got out for awhile with his cousins. But even the draw of family could not keep him away from me. Sometimes charm and lovability have a steep price.

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Sign Post Forest by Dave Hileman

One of the “things you do” on this highway is stop at the Sign Post Forest. Or, if you are prepared, place a sign in the maze of posts and among the 80,000 signs posted there. It all began with a lonely GI while building the Alcan in 1942. Addie designed our sign and Kellen executed the actual sign with a frame and all. Perfect. I’m sure there were others supporting the effort. So, on our long and wet drive we stopped. First task is finding a space. We were able to find a pretty good one, actually, eye level from the walk even though it was lower on the post. We secured it with two long nails and to wide head nails - plus a fifth nail for whatever reason. The signs are either interesting or you are starved to see something along the route. While the scenery is very compelling, after 80 quadrillion trees (the Moose counted) a break is nice. We enjoyed it and more, proud of the sign the grandkids made as a contribution to the massive forest of signs.

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Alaska Journey Day 21 by Dave Hileman

The Gray Day #1 (or if you prefer Dylan, Rainy Day Woman #11)

Leaving our campsite at Charlie Lake Provincial Park under an overcast sky foreshadowed the rain that would follow us all day and into the evening. It was a tough drive. The road for the first 150 miles in the rain was heavy with truck traffic. And the surface varied from pretty decent to very rough. Then it got better and worse. The truck traffic eased up a bit but the rain increased and the road surface, well in places you had to just hope you were actually on the road. Up one mountain - who knew there would be more mountains in Northern BC? - they had just done fresh gravel, very thick fresh gravel and we were on an 8% grade up 6.7 K and an 8% grade down 6.7 K. A bit tense. The rain never stopped today.

We broke up the trip by buying a small Strawberry Rhubarb pie @ Shepherds Inn & eating half of it for lunch. Delicious. We stopped at the visitor center in Fort Nelson. It was really nice. Good WiFi, free coffee, nice place to work, clean & right on the highway. The staff, Sandra, was very helpful. We also managed to find Tetsa River Services. They were featured on the Food Channel for their cinnamon rolls. We will let you know later if they are really worth the publicity. We ended the day at Poplars Campground near Toad Creek. We are the only people in the place so we are dry camping but in a great pull-through slot so I did not get too wet setting up. We first thought we would stay at the Rocky Mountain Lodge ($10 dry camp). It looked like Freddy from Elm street would pick a different place, too creepy. Oh, we did see a bear, that is number 5 for the statisticians reading the site. I’ll get more photos from today’s post up later today or tomorrow - WiFi barely works here and won’t load a photo.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

What a day. I guess the guides did Ok for we kept moving and there seems to be only one road so the Driver did not get lost. I would not doubt with one road he COULD get lost yet I see the occasional sign that says we are on the correct road. Still we are not in Alaska quite yet. Disappointment. Maybe tomorrow. Nothing dramatic happened today and BdB slept for hours, I think the Giant Creature exhausted him. Not even the occasional grunt. Hmmm. I almost forget I did meet the lovely and charming Sandra who immediately adored me. We had a lovely chat over tea and she invited me back anytime. I think she owned a town, cause she knew everything. Clearly she was the Leader. I would like to own a town like she does! Maybe she could help get Moose Rights in her town? I will ask after I finish with the Alaska Rallies

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Alaska Journey Day 20 by Dave Hileman

The Alcan Begins Day

We left Hinton AB about 7:30 and headed north up the Scenic Alaska Trail a 200 mile plus two-lane road that skirts the Rockies and 

STOP. Enough. 

Let me tell you what really happened. The Driver stumbled into a road that said “To Alaska” I just knew it cause my heightened antler sensitivity was quivering and my keen sense of direction just drove us toward Alaska. Two of my most outstanding qualities. I know the Driver would write about the bear and the elk and the river and the trees and the sign - all boring. What matters is that we are finally going to Alaska. We are on the road. How long can it take, early morning is my best estimate. 

Also, the Driver would not tell you that I had to save them once again. They stopped for lunch and a hideous, giant-toothed Loathsome (It looked like a Loathsome) attacked. I immediately went into action and stopped the creature. I need the ride! Oh, and BdB followed me and, well, was kinda brave. Maybe I can do something with this burden they have given me. Tonight we are at a Provincial Campground - not sure what happened to Canada but Provincial is nicer, no polar bears. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

See the above hijacked paragraph.

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Alaska Journey Day 19 by Dave Hileman

The Not Much Day

Not much sightseeing or driving which is a nice break because we leave in the morning for a long trek to the start of the Alaska Highway - and beyond. Today we accomplished: laundry, bedding change, repacked bins in truck, moved supplies to trailer from truck, charged stuff, WiFi for 2 hours, church, cleaning of bathroom, floor & more, installed nifty Rock Chip Prevention Pads® (really yoga mats) on the front of the trailer. Not sure if they will stay on past town three miles away, but we made the effort. Also Cindy fixed amazing French toast in the trailer. Nice.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I had a day off today from protecting and correcting the Guides. We didn’t even get more lost. Largely becuse we did not go anywhere. Well, we rode to town a couple miles away. The guides cleaned the white caboose and truck, did laundry and stuff. Another clear advantage to Mooseiness, I simply took a quick dip in the Bow River and presto, ready for another two weeks. Cleanliness is one of my most outstanding qualities. BdB on the other hand, ROLLED IN THE DIRT. I am not sure I can endure his grunts and lack of manners much longer plus we are still lost. I will persevere but the delays, the mistakes, the lack of alacrity, the fact we are lost in the wilderness of icy Canada among hungry polar bears is testing my natural good nature. 

I can’t figure out the temperature stuff, they say it is 11 degrees but I’m not cold. Guess my perfect fur advantage is to credit. 

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Alaska Journey Day 18 by Dave Hileman

The Ice Day

We started out again pretty early, our goal was Jasper NP by way of the Ice Fields Parkway. There were several places we wanted to stop but there is little information on the parking and towing the trailer makes some of them a tough go. We got in the first two, the third we just missed, the fourth I wish we missed. Down a long, potholed dirt road to find the turn-a-round closed and a big fifth wheel (rented) who had to do an 83 point turn that took 20 minutes. I got in and out quicker but we did not get to hike. Two more were either too full or too hard but we did get in two additional stops that were breathtaking. It was fine but we did not find Jasper to be as charming as Banff - nor as busy. We walked a bit and ate at a pretty good Italian restaurant. Then down to a KOA near Hinton because all the parks sites were long booked. There was ice cream but after three days of Cows I did not want to be on the ice cream down slope. So I skipped.

The weather was perfect, a glorious day. We saw both mountain goats and two black bears - all very close. The bear was 20 feet  away - we were in the truck. The route follows the Bow River and the lakes were just incredible colors. Athabasca Falls was amazing - a deep crevice carved in limestone.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I am still miffed, but not in a funk. And yes I looked up that word too. BdB is still hanging around. I will say he eats only grass and prefers to sleep outside so that aspect is not too bad. But his manners. Gross. If he was not so completely devoted to me I would drop him at the first pasture we come to but, well, maybe I can get some use from him. Thinking creatively is one of my most outstanding characteristics.

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Alaska Journey Day 17 by Dave Hileman

The Tea House of the June Moon Day

Often your expectations of an event do not match your actual experience and that may lead to disappointment. Then there is the opposite where your hope for an outing is exceeded by any or every measure you can use. We started our day early because, remember the parking issue at Lake Louise? So we arrived early enough to snag a lower parking area slot. Yea. Then we started off on a 2.8 mile hike to Lake Agnes. Lake Agnes is the location of Canada’s oldest tea house and the only access is walking the mountain. Even the staff walks everyday lugging supplies. We passed Lake Louise and it is more beautiful than any photo. Ringed with high, snow capped and glacier covered mountains the water is otherworldly in color and clarity. The trail begins to ascend almost immediately after you pass the impressive (structure and cost!) hotel. You don't get any breaks on the way because it is always going up. Your do get one great view of Lake Louise and it is a popular photo spot. The next milestone is Mirror Lake at just over 2 miles. It was fed by a waterfall from Lake Agnes. Super picturesque. Then before you get to Lake Agnes you are presented with 82 stairs to complete your hike. The lake was still skimmed with ice and sat in a bowl - one young girl years ago called in a teacup - on three sides by massive rock mountains. The tea house is log and rock oasis and a most welcome spot at the top of the waterfall. They serve many varieties of tea in large or small teapots. We also chose homemade tea biscuits and an oatmeal/apple crumble. We had an inside seat and luxuriated in the 20 minute wait for our order. It was perfect. A short walk after took us along the lake were we heard the distinct rumble of an avalanche. Unmistakable sound. We returned the same way we came. On the way back a couple asked us if it was worth the walk and about how far did they still have to walk. As we chatted it turned out that Wendy and Emilio were fascinating people and Emilio was an Oscar winning musician and composer for films. After we returned to Banff, we had coffee and bought bread, went to a grocery store and forced ourselves, actually me, to have one more go at Cows ice cream! Back at the trailer we fixed an eclectic dinner and then went out to try and see some animals. No luck on that front. Bushed tonight but what a day. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Emotional Support Animal, that is what ESA means! Why do they think I need emotional support! I am even tempered, cool as a Moose, always in control of myself! I cannot believe they think I need help! I’m outraged! incandescent! livld! I think I may just explode!!! Me, not in control? Me, not calm and rational? Me, less than perfect in speech and comportment? Me! Why do they even imagine I could possibly need any outside assistance! I think it is projection, or envy or simply another irrational gesture because they think it will distract me from my goal of Moose Rights Rallies across Alaska since we are most certainly lost in Canada. Never! And what will I do with BdB, he follows me everywhere, constantly three feet away. He clearly adores me. I know idol worship - well he will just have to get over me because I don’t need any EMOTIONAL SUPPORT!!!! 

Lake Agnes with the Tea House on the edge of the falls.

Lake Agnes with the Tea House on the edge of the falls.

Alaska Journey Day 16 by Dave Hileman

The Turquoise Day

Up early to get to a hike at Moraine Lake. But we were interrupted on our effort to get their early enough for a parking space by a grizzly bear, our first on this trip and second ever. Thus we were a bit late but got one of the last parking places at 8:00. What a magnificent lake, incredible colors of turquoise and blue and green. All surrounded by snow and glacier capped mountains, seven peaks in all, I think. The trail goes only on one side of the lake so it is an out and back. Great scenery and great weather. Then we tried to do another hike but zero parking. None. So we went to Lake Louise, the town, and ate at Bill Peydo’s Cafe. Nice place with decent food not too badly priced. Then back toward Banff on 1A we stopped at Johnston Canyon for a walk to two water falls along a 2.5 mile trail. Again rushing, turquoise glacial waters filled the canyon. We saw both the lower and upper falls. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I am in disbelief! My surprise is a sentence not a gift. The Guides gave me an intern. Sounds decent of them, right? Not at all. It is a bison, with wimpy horns. It is inarticulate and only communicates with grunts, I mean, how embarrassing is that and it is called Brrricesun de Bison. I will never call him that! What am I supposed to do with this? Where will it sleep? It never sipped a latte, never toured the Louvre, never swam with the dolphins, never ran with the bulls and does not know anything about Moose Rights. Sophistication is not its strong suit. The guides said it is an ESA. I will have to look that up. What I need is someone who can make copies and coffee, someone with an MBA not an ESA. I need to research the ESA degree right away because the main problem is that BdB already adores me. Surprise!!!

Moraine Lake

Moraine Lake

Lower Falls @ Johnston Canyon

Lower Falls @ Johnston Canyon



Alaska Journey Day 15 by Dave Hileman

The Day the Repair Got Done

Thank you to Backcountry RV Repair in Lethbridge and especially Chris, my new hero. We were there when they opened and he was inside reading my email. Then he directed me to the back - he looked at the part and did not have one but said he could make it, saw the space was too small to work, said that’s ok “I can slide out the heater,” then notice it was riveted in not screwed in and he said, that’s all right, I will rivet it back! He was unflappable. And the repair was done right and at a fair price. If you need assistance on the way to Alaska near Shelby MT - that is almost to the border at the Sweetgrass entrance, see Chris. Great guy, good, fair company. So fixed we washed the truck and trailer is a giant truck DIY wash with VERY high pressure hoses and a fire hose to rinse. It had high walkways on both sides. Thanks, Myra, I needed those new muscles. Then off to Banff. We got a campsite we really liked and and extended to Saturday AM when we found out we could not get one in Jasper. We drove to town and found a COWS Ice Cream My absolute favorite anywhere, ever. We celebrated with double cones each. On the way back saw Big Horn Sheep and Elk. Nice day.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I’m still not talking. But we did find great ice cream. Maybe I should let them off the hook. Tomorrow. I bet they feel very upset that they did not have my riveting commentary today. I guess my silence has punished them sufficiently. Tomorrow I will smooth things over. Magnanimity is one of my most outstanding qualities. Then they can get my surprise. That is exciting. Big mountains today, very Moosy-like setting. Can’t figure out this Canada thing. 

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Alaska Journey Day 14 by Dave Hileman

The Plain Day (as High Plains!)

If I were you I would not read today’s post because it was a plain day on the high plains of Montana. We crossed the state on Route Two for over 300 miles and lots of construction. There were also lots of mid-century motels with neat old sign however we were on a tight schedule the only oil change I could find was 4.25 hours away and we were 4.50 and he would be closed after so no lunch or stops. It was a chore day. Some laundry, oil change for the truck and refill on one propane tank. We stopped only for gas and one coffee. Until dinner about 10 miles from Canada to eat our “forbidden” foods. We cross the boarder in five minutes and stopped for the night in Lethbridge at a Walmart. Then the day got exciting as we have a water leak from a broken tee valve. I -and I know you are astonished - took it apart and found the problem and was able to stem the leak. Thew plan is to be at a local RV shop when they open at 8:00. I hope they have the part and a tool to get the bigger brass valve off. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

This may be the most exited I have been since I got an autograph from Bullwinkle Moose as a young but promising Mooseling. We must be ready to leave Montana for Alaska ‘cause we have been riding for hours and hours. They still didn’t tell me the surprise. Two excitements are more than most Moose can stand. 


Wait, what? Where? I am confused again. We left MT but we are apparently in Canada. How? Canada is near where I was born in Maine and it is full of ice and Polar Bears, how can this be Canada and what happened to Alaska. And on top of that I was subjected to a great indignity because the Driver said I did not have a passport I could not ride into the frozen land but had to SNEAK across the border on hoof. I am sure I barely escaped a bear (but I have to admit at 73 degrees it was not too cold). Why can’t I have a passport, more Moose Rights. Besides the Driver said no one would really notice a Moose walking along the lake. I am outraged. At least they waited for me to get back into the truck. But I am not speaking to them. So they said no suprise until I get over my funk. I can’t I don’t know what a funk is!

The old hog barn at Reindel’s ranch

The old hog barn at Reindel’s ranch



Alaska Journey Day 13 by Dave Hileman

The Entering New Territory Day

We left the Reindel’s barn about 8 - really enjoyed catching up (and Chris reattached our AC cover properly -thanks!) Lots of miles on this trip have been true to our name on two lane roads and today was completely on pretty country roads, miles of them. We stopped first in the North Unit of Roosevelt NP, a first time visit to this part but not a new park. Had a 2.4 mile hike to a spectacular view overlooking multiple bends of the Missouri River and and bright green Cottonwood trees all from high up on the edge of a canyon. Then after a stop for gas and groceries - stocked up, we went to Fort Union NHS. This was John Astors most profitable post where thousands of fur pelts were traded for lots of good from all around the world. Several different tribes would make this journey once a year and from 1828 until after the Civil War when the trade ceased to be profitable. Then, two hours into Montana we stopped for the night in a small RV park in Glasgow.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Do I need to tell you it worked. We are again on our way. I don’t think they suspect a thing. Oh, I hope the North Pole is near Alaska, well, of course it is. And, drum roll, we entered Montana. Montana is near Alaska because my ex-girl friend, Fairlane, lives here. Or at least she did. We wrote to each other last year and she was a great help in focusing on Moose Rights. She was just perfect. We were so right for each other I still don’t know why she decided to get married last fall to, well, whoever. I know she must feel awful about that but I don’t know where she is and I must push on. Well, perhaps because the Guides knew that I would be a tiny bit sad they said they had a surprise for me tomorrow. It will be stupendous I am sure. 

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Alaska Journey Day 12 by Dave Hileman

The Walking Meriwether and William Day

Sunday so we went to town with the Reindel’s to their church. Interesting place, verse by verse teaching is the primary focus of worship. After we stopped at McDonalds for a breakfast sandwich to surprise Tori who was at work. Cindy and I then went to the Knife River Indian Villages NHS. This is where Lewis and Clark met Sakakawea (not how I learned to spell it or say her name) as they pushed westward along the Missouri River. The park was nicely done, good reconstruction of a circular earthen mound lodge, spacious and rather clever how it was used. The tribe had about 5000 people - more than St. Louis at the time. Enjoyed a walk of about 2 miles and on the way we left the trail and walked along the bank of the Missouri River looking at basically the same scenery as Lewis/Clark. Neat atmosphere. The walk back across the knee deep grass for a long way was a bit too much atmosphere. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

OK, so the Guides went somewhere to do something, I don’t really listen unless the little white pill they haul around is connected because I know we are not going to make any progress. So while they were gone I made up a flyer for the Best Ice Cream in the US at Moost Be Good and picked a place that Tori told me was way north. Never heard of the North Pole but it does sound like the right direction. I made the flyer look excellent (one of my most outstanding abilities) and I know they can’t resist especially since I also added free coffee. I think tomorrow we will be back on track and by nightfall I shall be sleeping in Alaska. I am not sure it is legal to be this clever.

Along the Knife River and Missouri River confluence - beautiful grasslands

Along the Knife River and Missouri River confluence - beautiful grasslands



Alaska Journey Day 11 by Dave Hileman

The Amphitheater Day.

We woke up later than usual, about 7 and used the morning to visit a bit with Chris and Rebecca, work on web site and banking and a bit of clean up in the trailer. After lunch we went to Theodore Roosevelt National Park with the Reindel’s driving, a nice break for me. It was very windy in the park and cold, especially at the top of Buck Hill. The other short hike we did was Wind Canyon and it was not windy at all. Nice views of the Little Missouri River. We ate diner in Medora and then went to an outdoor show at a venue just out of town in Medora, It was a lot of fun. Music a bit of comedy, some stylized history and a family of jugglers. Home late.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Day two in the barn. What has inflected these people! I tried to Uber to town, there is no Uber, but that’s OK I don’t think there is a town! I have not had a latte for two days. No ice cream, no doughnuts and my guides are sleeping in a barn. I really think they believe we are in Alaska. But I know we are not. No signs of my rallies or posters, no TV interviews. Not Alaska. I got them moving west now how to convince them we are not at the goal. 

When an iPhone is what you have, pretty good camera.

When an iPhone is what you have, pretty good camera.

People on stage represented historical folks and they showed old photographs while they were preforming. Look at the right side of the set.

People on stage represented historical folks and they showed old photographs while they were preforming. Look at the right side of the set.

Before the show they hired an elk to walk across the hill

Before the show they hired an elk to walk across the hill

Prayers by Dave Hileman

Native American prayer clothes are placed in trees are shrubs around the base of Devils Tower NM as it is a sacred place in their culture.

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