Alaska Journey Day 10

The Life in a Barn Day

Up and out early on the Red Bed Trail at Devil’s Tower. What a beautiful hike first across a prairie dog town and along the Belle Forsch River. The trail then starts upward and along very red cliffs of the Spearfish Formation that looked amazing in the morning light with the vibrant green of the river valley in view as well. We spotted a very Black-Billed Magpie, a fabulous bird and lots of Nuthatches and Chickadees. The trail wound along grassy fields punctuated with fragrant pines and spots of bright yellow or white flowers. The Tower loomed over the scenes but occasionally it would disappear behind a thick growth of trees. At the 2/3 mark we were back on top at the VC and replenished our water. Then the descent back to the campground along a newer yellow rock called the Sundance Formation. Great views again as we completed a 4 mile circle of the Tower. We then packed up and headed north toward Dickinson ND. Along the way in a tiny hamlet called Buffalo we found a free dump station in a roadside park and a nice coffee shop! called Blossom and Brews. Otherwise miles of perfectly straight two-lane roads and endless green grazing lands. We arrived at our friends farm in ND about 5 and they cleared out a space in one of the barns for us to back into because the forecast was for strong storms and hail. After burgers and chat we headed into the barn. A strong storm did ensue and we were glad for the protection. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

So even with my warnings the Guides headed out to walk on the vibrating mountain. I had to go with them, despite the danger, for they clearly needed my protection. We made it around, must be some sort of ritual but I kept myself between them and the mountain. So I am exhausted as we set out again, maybe tomorrow i’I'll be in Alaska. I napped a bit and we were again in the insidious South of Dakota. SD has to be the biggest state we have been in seven times. Thankfully we finally arrived North of Dakota at some more nice people’s home and they cooked. Highlight of the day. But the Guides are sleeping in a barn! Moose don’t sleep in barns and the outside is full of those bovine beasts. Fortunately I have access to the house because Tori adores me already and invited me inside. That was a close call.  

Devil's Tower Reflected Sunset

Alaska Journey Day 9

The “Like a Rock” Day

Up early and off to the Cliff Shelf trail. A unique area of the Badlands where centuries ago a cliff face fell and created a “slump” as they call it, where water drains and vegetation flourishes. Saw mostly rabbits but rumor is that lots of animals use this place. Then a short, very short, walk to a “window” in the wall overlooking a craggy canyon. We then headed west again and showed great restraint in NOT stopping for five cent coffee and a doughnut for the third day. However we did stop at Panera in Rapid City to use the WIFI and get a bit of a charge on the computers. We arrived at the Devil’s Tower National Monument about three after a nice walk in the town of Spearfish where we found an excellent ice cream shop and shared a “mountain huckleberry” as it was not quite lunch. The tower is both unique and more spectacular than I expected. It was hot and the parking lots were nearly full at the VC so we stayed in the wonderful campsite, fixed dinner and did a hike around the base of the tower, about 1.4 miles. Then we set up the camera at a strategic spot off a dirt road and waited for sunset. Again lots of clouds rolled in. We did get one nice reflection but the plan to stay and shoot stars was a no go. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

It worked. I am a near genus. Oh, who are we kidding, a full genus. We went west again. Finally. And we had an excellent ice cream stop. What a day, full of anticipation as we have to be very close to Alaska in Wyoming. I still have not heard much about the rallies I am planning but, Moose are always late, great procrastinators, unlike myself, where promptness and timeliness are among my most outstanding qualities.

Parked near a very strange mountain that set my antlers tingling. Very odd, almost alien like vibe. Not sure I'll sleep well tonight. 

view of the Tower from campsite in late afternoon

Last Badlands hike over this kind of trail.

Alaska Journey Day 8

The Prairie Dog Day

Up early-ish and on the Badlands Loop. We traveled west and the light was beautiful. Very clear and still morning. On the way, in addition to the scenery we saw, pronghorn, bison, mountain goats and scores of prairie dogs. Many with lots of babies. Very cute to watch and listen to them. The loop road ends south of Wall and so we went over some back roads and once again had nickel coffee at Wall Drug. And we shared another donut. Then we stopped at Minuteman National Historic site. I didn’t realize how hard it is to get a ticket to tour an underground silo. The next opening is in late July. So we just did the grounds of two launch sites, most is underground but there are a few things to few. Then back to the Badlands where we did a 3/4 mile hike but it was getting too hot. Not comfortable at all. We came back to the trailer for lunch - then a migraine so stayed here until dinner, which we fixed and then ate outside in delightful, bug-free weather. We went for a two mile hike in the evening. Striking land. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

The Driver may not be lost but he is confused. Not exactly breaking news for anyone who actually knows him. We drove the same interstate, the same direction, on the exact same route as yesterday. Why. Well, except for excellent doughnuts. Which I tried a few different icing varieties for research purposes only, always a thorough investigator. My adherence to the best scientific practices is one of my most outstanding qualities. 

My plan tomorrow is to rig the GPS the Driver uses so that we are forced to go west. I am so clever. Remember Moose Rights. 

“I told you they didn’t bring enough water.”

Four Guys

Alaska Journey Day 7

The Wall Day

We traveled from the Black Hills to Badlands National Park about 50 miles north and 60 miles east. I tried to get a tour at the Minuteman Missile National Monument but first available was mid-July! We stopped - mandatory I believe for all travelers - at Wall Drug and had $.05 coffee. I splurged and bought Cindy her own. And we shared a maple donut. We arrived at the park campground and secured a spot - no power but nice and then the rains started. So we simply went to the VC and then took about a five mile drive to scout out a sunrise photo spot. Getting up at 4:15 6:00 tomorrow. In the evening the rain stopped, we fixed dinner in the trailer early so we could get out on the road and shoot some photos at sunset. It was pretty. Nice soft pink colors against the pale rocks of the Badlands. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

No one will believe me but we spent the day going EAST. I am … no, remember San Juan Hill and TR, I will prevail. Maybe the Driver was just lost, again. The odds are certainly good. Soon I think he will figure out if we are going away from the setting sun it is not correct. I did ferret out a dozen maple donuts, some solace. We saw some animal with a poor excuse for antlers.

Part of the “Wall” in the Badlands.

Alaska Journey Day 6

The Underground Day

Well things are looking up. Of course it would have to be since we spent much of it 200 plus feet under the surface of the earth. It really feels like the vacation has begun here in South Dakota. We had just a super day. First we slept really well at the KOA, it takes a while to get completely acclimated to travel for me. After breakfast (and an extra coffee with a peach muffin from Mornin’ Sunshine - I said it was a super day:) we went to Wind Cave National Park. We were able to get a tour early and it was very interesting and quite different from the caves we have seen in the east. It is dry, constant 54 degrees and did not have the stalagmites etc. Mostly what were called “boxes” places where the interior dissolved leaving what would compare to mortar if you could take out the bricks. We were at one time over 24 stories down, lots of steps but they have elevators to get back. Except we saw that later that day the tours were closed because the elevators broke. I blame the Moose. 

Next Custer State Park, what a treat. Stunning scenery and lots of buffalo and some pronghorn. Then we went to Mt Rushmore. Still not my ideal kind of park but it was much better approaching by way of the Iron Mountain Road where you got great long-distance views including two framed by one lane tunnels. We took a short hike, half mile or so on the Presidential Trail. Nice closer views and you got to see the old studio. There were also another 200 or so steps down and up - no elevator. Then off to Jewel Cave and a really excellent tour, the Discovery Tour. I’ll write more about these later. So if you are keeping score, new park numbers 225 and 226 and one revisit but first time photographing. We ate our first meal in a restaurant this trip in Custer SD at the Black Hills Burger and Bun - watch for the Eats! next week. And then back to the beautiful grasslands over Wind Cave to shoot a sunset. I got set up but a big black cloud formed and the sunset did not materialize too well. What a fun day. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I expect you already guessed - no airports. I’m clearly stuck. And they unhooked the little caboose so that is not a good sign. Though it did get better in some respects. First I got a great muffin. The Driver and the Guide then disappeared underground. I’m not going there, no self respecting Moose would play in a hole in the ground so while they were, well wherever they were, I found a nice little shed and hooked into the electric power to charge my phone. Not getting timely response from my Moose Power Missive to Alaska. Probably just the time difference. By the way the Guides did the hole thing twice, I think they need therapy. But, as I eluded to at the start, not too bad because we went where they had giant heads and one of them was Roosevelt, the leader of the Bull Moose Party. I am inspired again. I will follow TR’s example and take the hill. We will achieve Moose Rights and, I add modestly, expect my image will soon be on top of that rock. North to Alaska!

The Heads framed by the pines on Iron Mountain Road

New Bird

This is a Lark Sparrow a new species for me. Always fun to capture another bird for the life list.

Alaska Journey Day 5

The Well-Executed Poorly-Planned Day

Talk about a plan working out but you wish it did not. We left a great camping spot at a winery in Vermillion SD and went to a church for the 9AM service and arrived 10 minutes early. They meet at 10:45 in the summer. Cross the Missouri River to see the ONLY place open on the Missouri National Recreation River, an overlook on a bluff. Then up the Nebraska side to cross again to Yankton, SD and found a church. Decent place, nice downtown setting, good stop except I was in line to get a coffee and they ran out one person in front of me. Small issue! Then back across to Nebraska on another bridge. The scenery was really neat and we were amazing how few “anything” we saw. Traveled 165 miles to Valentine NE to see another park with a bridge. Very “are you kidding me this is a park” stop. I mean you could not even see the structure of the bridge. On the way we were 114 miles of tiny two lane road in NE with one or two tiny “towns” and no services. We had 17 miles of gas left when we finally found it about 28 miles from our destination. Back to SD, two hours later and dead tired we arrived at our campground. We also, counting the night before, crossed the Missouri River on 3 different bridges and only 4 of the 10 were even open because of flooding but we did not know that. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

Despair engulfs me. We finally escape The Iowa and then are in the South. I thought we left the south days ago. And it gets worse, we are in South Dakota, then NE Braska - back and forth all day. NO DINNER. NO ICE CREAM. Barely ever stopped and They got out and looked at a bridge. What for - trolls, tolls? It must have been midnight when they stopped. I am going to find an airport in the morning. I need off this bus. 

Mulberry Bend of the Missouri National Recreation River - park number 225

Niobrara National Scenic River - park number 226

Alaska Journey Day 4

The day began well, we slept in a bit until almost 7. Then after breakfast Jean, the grandma of the Hansen clan, gave us a personal tour of the operation. A lot of work and really neat how they divide the labor. The grandkids chip in too, and they are paid. Wonderful time and great people on this 155 year-old family farm now in the seventh generation of ownership. Then off to the Cedar Falls VC and walked a two mile trail past ponds, restored prairie and saw lots of blackbirds. Then armed with a couple of things we wanted to see we set off on historic Route 20 across Iowa. A detour to see barns with painted quilt patterns did not go well. Most of them were too far from the road or badly faded but we did see a few. One plan was to ride along a scenic river drive on the Iowa, could not find it so I stopped in a store and asked. She said go through a state park, up a hill to a stop sign and then turn left, go 1/4 mile and turn right on the gravel road. Then this discussion between her and another lady was how bad the shape of the highway would be given the flooding. We did not try it with the trailer. Nice country. After a gas stop we headed west again but the plans did not work out, either things were closed or flooded. We got into Sioux City and then crossed the Missouri River into SD and stayed in a winery in Vermillion. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I am sure we are lost, again. All day in the Iowa. At the last minute we ended up in the South again. Some place called Dakota. Must be somewhere near South Carolina. This is not the way to Alaska. If it were not for several flavors of fine ice cream I stashed I would have given up. 

Farm Camping is the place to be, farm living is the life for me…

Alaska Journey Day 3

Today was a primary travel day so we could get across the Mississippi. It always feels like we are really on a long trip once the river is behind us. We stopped not too far into Iowa at Herbert Hoover’s birthplace. We have been before and it is a great spot 1/2 mile off the interstate to walk in a pleasant place, see some historic buildings and not be next to the highway. We walked past the library to the grave site this time. There was a young lady there recording bird calls to compare songs once a sound barrier is built to see if a more quiet environment will entice them to sing more. I wanted to play an Arctic bird’s call into one of her mics but thought better of the idea. We stopped at a dairy for the night. Harvest Host is a wonderful idea and this was a perfect place. Once we negotiated a very strong hail storm! We were parked by a small lake, had a super peaceful night, ate fresh Key Lime ice cream from the dairy and simply loved the place and the people were so helpful and welcoming. Delightful.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

The trip is unraveling a bit. We are in Iowa. Did anyone ever hear of an Iowa? I am sure the driver is lost. We are in the midst of giant flat lands that don’t really exist anywhere I have been with strange upright cylinders poking up everywhere. I don’t think this place is anywhere near Alaska. The absolutely only decent thing is that we stumbled into ice cream. I had 12 flavors to stock up because we may never see a real ice cream store again. Oh, I forgot, I once again had to step in and save the day when this hideous horned monster began to attack. I think he was the leader because these things are all around us (maybe they live in the cylinders?) but none of the others have attacked. 

Herbert Hoover and Lou Hoover graves.

Cadillac says “I held so tight he froze just like a statue.” Another rescue for the amazing Moose.

Alaska Journey Day 2

We left Cabela’s after walking the parking lot for some exercise. It rained hard across Kentucky. It was difficult to keep from stopping at one of the many distilleries for a break. We left the interstate west of Louisville and headed toward Paoli and the Hoosier Forest. We were surprised at how wooded and hilly it was, way more than expected. It was a really beautiful drive to our friend’s home in Solsberry to spend some time with Tom and Angie. We toured their church, saw the Tulip Trestle and the YoHo store. Had a wonderful dinner with them - thanks again folks. We spent the night parked in their driveway and then Tom cooked us an excellent breakfast before we left for Iowa. So far this travel thing is pretty good.

The Tulip Trestle was built in 1906 and is still used today. It is one of the longest and highest trestles of its type in the US. Impressive structure. Would love to see an old steam train crossing it.

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

If it were not for the great food this day would have been a disaster. One state. I will give them the benefit of the doubt only because they seem to know really good cooks. We can allow for an extra day for superior food. I spent a lot of time writing my last challenge for the Alaska Moose. I think the rallies will be huge. Now I need to write my speech. Day two with no ice cream, I’m getting shaky. 

Looking up. They used to let passengers out to walk on this. Eek!.

Alaska Journey Day 1

Day One Alaska Trek

Left Raleigh from Geof’s house where we parked the trailer overnight (more level than our place) at just after 7 and headed to Knoxville. A bonus was to see Ellary looking pretty in her dress for Promotion Day as she finished lower school and begins upper school. First stop, a visit with our friend, Jill. She prepared a nice lunch and made us cookies and coffee cake for the journey. Always the gracious hostess we enjoyed a special time with her. We then headed north and ended the day in a Cabela’s parking lot in Lexington, KY. I can report that we saw no bears on day one! It was basically uneventful which is how you want a travel day to unfold. 

Cadillac’s Most Correct Viewpoint

I think my “Stern Talk”® to the Driver has paid off because we made a lot of states today. Not exactly sure how many we have to go across, maybe 11 or six and today we did FOUR. (I don’t need to remind you that we were four days getting to three states last fall.) So my estimate of 4 days to Alaska is pretty good. Estimating is one of my more outstanding abilities. 

We also ate lunch with the lovely Jill and she made me cookies. Excellent cookies because they had cranberries. I guess she knew I would be a bit homesick for Maine. 

Oh, and not a single cannon or stale old house did we see. This might be a pretty good trip. 

Lets play a game of Which Thing Is Not Like The Other? Can you guess?

Orchids at Jill’s

Actually Bright and Colorful

I sometimes over process images, there is a definite skill with that and for me a steep learning curve. Then sometimes I take a photo and get it into the program and I think that is overdone but, actually, nothing was done to most of this image. It was taken a few moments before sunset as the last of the rays hit these beach grasses.

Assateague National Seashore

Remember the Alaska posts start tomorrow, Sunday, with Wednesday, which is followed on Monday by Thursday etc. I will NEVER keep this all straight for the 120 plus days.

Common

You don’t have to photograph only the rare Spotted Scorch-tailed Pumpkin bird to get some neat shots. The birds in the backyard, at the feeder or ones you pass each day along the road can be interesting. I was shooting photos with Dennis Mook a few weeks ago and we were trying to get some swallows (never did really) meanwhile this female Red-Winged Blackbird was flying around a bridge at Jamestown Island many times with this same piece of straw. Must have made 30 circuits before finally leaving it in a nest on the other side of the creek. Busy bird.

F A Q - Cadillac the Moose

Wow, grass soup is one of my most favorites soups.

Why do we travel with a stuffed moose?

A younger version of our granddaughter started sending him on our trips so he could get back to Maine and visit his relatives. She is older now but still indulges us with him for our travels. 

Why is he named Cadillac?

You may be aware that there is a mountain in Acadia named Cadillac and assume he was named for it. However, the back story is that he was born near a rusted, overgrown 53 Caddy and, of course, the name stuck. HE thinks the mountain is named after him. 

He seems awful small for a moose, right?

PLEASE don’t tell him - his perspective is not aligned with reality. 

How did he become so well spoken and well written?

The advantage of living with three clever and growing kids. He studies at nights - though Moose are largely diurnal he can’t seem to get up in the morning and so stays up very late at night, and while he learns a lot of “stuff” it does not always get connected in a useful way. The synapses don’t always line up.

He seems to be a bit of a bon vivant, is that right?

Depends on your use of the term, he certainly enjoys a good meal, several times a day, but is not too discriminating in his selections which run from ice cream to water lilies to Twinkies. But he does desire to live well so an aspiring bon vivant might be accurate.

Is he useful on the trips?

Not at all. Helpless.

How effective will his Moose Rights campaign be?

Slightly less chance of success than the Pelosi and Trump families enjoying a nice weekend together in a small cottage in Nags Head. 

Does he play any musical instruments?

No, for which we are eternally grateful. We did have to hide a harmonica he found because that was going to be trouble.

Where is his family?

Not sure. We know he was born by Molasses Pond near Eastbrook, Maine. He arrived in Bar Harbor with several dozen cousins via UPS. Once his UPC tag was removed it become difficult to track all of his relatives so he makes all Moose a relative.

Where does he live when not traveling?

Gosh, we don’t know. He goes back to our granddaughter and then shows up again with his sleeping bag, suitcase and snacks when we are about to leave. Never has spending money!

We heard a rumor that he bought a Fuji GFX100 and several lenses, true?

NO, not at all. First he does not have opposable thumbs, nor actually any fingers so no camera. If he did happen to get access to a Mr. Mook’s credit card, we would let him buy a couple but not actually let him use them. I would just borrow them. That is a great idea.

Is he really in the running for a Pulitzer or a Nobel prize?

In his mind there exists no prize, award, office or honor he should  not already have won. In reality, Pulitzer says, “Cadillac who?” Here is a list of awards he has applied for: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_awards We do think he would have a keen shot in the World Nettle-eating Championships. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Bottle_Inn

Does Cadillac have a job or a degree?

It depends on the day. He claims, as one of his more outstanding qualities, to be a medical doctor, lobbyist, sailer, writer, artist, city planner, dental hygienist, draftsman, lawyer, wine maker and much more. But, no, he actually has no skills and no degrees. That fact does not seem to stop him from choosing a new career every month or so. What he does have is self-confidence and a certain savoir faire. I can assure you he earns no money but needs a lot.

Is it true that he is running for President?

The Moose Minions are not allowed to comment on rumors. It is true that his Moose Rights campaign has opened new doors for him. And one of his platforms, I mean principle demands, is the restoration of the glorious Bull Moose Party. But of course all speculation is pre-mature. He firmly believes that one of the 57 candidates already running is probably honest.

Work, Work, Work

Tuesday is Loading Day and I was tasked with ferrying the food 600 or 700 yards, I would guess, out to the trailer. Why, because the Driver does not want to get “stuck” in his tiny road. Sheesh. Of course the food is the heaviest thing to be packed and that is OK as my unusual strength is one of my more outstanding qualities. However, that is not the issue. Do you see this, this crispy crunchy…. -green thing. This is not food. I packed NO Porterhouse Steaks or even a smaller house steak, no Lilly roots, no ice cream, really NO ICE CREAM. But we have cereal, 20 boxes of cereal. Do you know what cereal is, twigs and bark without the good stuff. No apples, no pie, no doughnuts, nothing essential. And we have not even started the trip, its going to be a long 3 or 4 days.

On Our Way Today

Today is the day we began the trek to Alaska. I am not posting trip photos or diary until Sunday the 2nd. On that day we will be posting what occurred today and will continue to be “off” four days. The four day delay is intended to allow us to post each day or at least almost every day. We know there will be multiple days with no WIFI or cell service. I will get a bit confused as we progress as to what the day actually is so I may not have the Sunday scripture on Sunday. However they may pop up even more. Hope you can share with us on this adventure.

Special Edition Tomorrow: Cadillac the Moose the Myth the Legal Issues.

All shined up and ready to roll.

Homeless (Sort of)

These two immature Bald Eagles, male on the left, female sort of hidden on right, are not quite ready to fly but the wind last week blew down their nest at Shelly Lake here in Raleigh. The male was uninjured, the female broke some tail feathers. It took a few days but they were rescued and are now in a wildlife center and both ought to be released this summer. My neighbor is one of the volunteer caretakers.

Remember - Memorial Day

We build on or tear down what has been passed on to us as individuals, as a nation. It is difficult living as we do to realize how we live, the freedom, rights and privileges we have are unknown in most all of history. It is hard not to think this is the norm not the exception. And today we should remember the hundreds of thousands who died to create or preserve that promise. We need to see how fragile it is and to work to maintain it in the face of powers, philosophies and practices that diminish what was earned with blood and sacrifice and treasure. Against all odds. America is not an ideal place, never has been and never will be- nothing dependent on human beings ever will but the genus is that it can adapt, as long as people are free, to remedy issues and vie for the good, the just and the fair. This flag that once flew over Fort Sumter is a symbol of that truth where four long and bloody years of war began that set a significant portion of America’s population on a new course toward dignity and freedom. The men and women who have died in service to this their country deserve honor and thanks that cannot be repaid.

Fort Sumter & Fort Moultrie National Historic Park