This is a walk we do most trips, it is only about 2 miles around and not too much elevation but you still have to clamber up rocks so it is a good re-introduction to hiking here. Plus the OCEAN. Views here are always nice and the waves as close as you wish to go.
Travel Diary 14 /
We were up and on the way to Saint Croix Island International Historic Site or Lieu historique international about 8 in a heavy fog with intermittent rain. It is a 90 mile trip one way to see an island you cannot get to from a tiny riverside park and the visitor center is not open on Wednesdays. Somedays I wonder about this quest to visit and photograph all of the parks. It makes for a full day. But Route One is interesting, lots of run down and seemingly abandoned buildings makes some of it sad. There are small towns and villages but none that look too prosperous. We did pass “Wreaths Across America” where they make the wreaths that are placed on veterans' graves at Christmas. Going to see them at Arlington was very moving. You will also see miles of wild blueberry fields. They were harvested in mid-August and then burned back in early September so not picturesque today. After a nice chat with the ranger at Saint Croix, who came out to visit even though they were closed, and a short walk down to see the island, we headed to Campobello Island and Roosevelt’s summer home for many years. Of course you pass through the customs area both going to and coming from Canada. It was a simple process with our passports and general benign appearances:) The house is pretty much as they left it - full of Roosevelt furnishings with the exception of three missing pieces from the inventory done in 1939. After Roosevelt contracted polio he was only here three times but Mrs. Roosevelt came every year even after the house was sold until the year she died.
Back to the campground, dinner in the trailer and getting ready for hiking tomorrow.
Cadillac’s Correct Viewpoint!
Well, I went. It delayed things on this end but was well worth it because I was able to see my French Canadian Cousin (actually 4th cousin, 3 antlers removed) but we were great friends growing up. He had difficulty getting a passport but the guides snuck into Canada at Lubec to visit another moldy house, of course. That allowed me to meet up with cousin Coupe de Ville. We had a great time. He is quite the sophisticated moose now and cooks for a living in Nova Scotia. We traded recipes but he also warned me that I would be disappointed in the picnic suggesting that perhaps my cousins in Maine were not too, well, up-to-date was how he put it. I already know they don’t have internet - how do you live without internet, but I am sure they have developed well past the stomping in the marsh stage or licking salt from the edge of the highway. Egad, how primitive. I could not get a photo of Coupe because of some visa issue, oh well, he promised to send me on via email. A great visit but we got home pretty late, and it is going to be a busy day tomorrow.
Have you ever seen more perfect weather!!!
By the way, this house was Franklin Roosevelt’s summer home, not so moldy because HIS cousin worked with my great-great-great-great grandfather on the Bull Moose party when Teddy ran for president. No finer political party existed before or since with such a fabulous name I am amazed they did not win every year.
Still no word on my royalty checks.
Saint Croix International Historic Park /
Yep, that’s it. 217 miles round trip to add number 206. Brief but investing history including the young Champlain you was here in 1604 when they tried to settle the area for the first time. One half of the men did not survive the winter so the relocated to another site and it eventually was successful. Also Sieur de Monts led the expedition and he is the one who named Mt Desert Island where Acadia National Park is located.
“My victory and honor come from God alone.
He is my refuge, a rock where no enemy can reach me.” Psalm 62:7 NLT
The only structure left on the island is an early 1900’s boat house.
Travel Diary 13 /
Day Thirteen
The KOA at Orland was really nice and a perfect place for a good night with full services before coming to the NP Campground. We took our time the last 50 miles to Acadia with a stop at the Wal-Mart for supplies. Seems to be a requirement. After a stop at the visitor’s center we arrived at Blackwoods Campground and got set up. We walked to the ocean from the campsite, about 250 yards to the shore and then found a trail for about two miles that led along the rocks and back to the campground. Dinner was a wonderful meal at a favorite restaurant, West Side Cafe. They remodeled the place since we were here last and it looks as nice as the food is excellent. Ice cream at Jordan Pond on Main St.
Cadillac’s Correct Viewpoint!
We are not just in Maine but my home territory, Mt. Desert Island, home of Acadia National Park. What a thrill. I thought we might get here earlier but it was a bit late so I was not able to catch up with any of my friends or cousins but I did get the planning for the dinner done. It will be splendiferous. We start with a petite lobster roll, toasted, with clarified butter not that nasty mayonnaise and touched with a bit of horseradish. For salad we are having wild arugula with a clam and mussel vinaigrette followed by some strong black licorice to cleanse the palette. For the main Maine course I plan to serve seafood boil with whatever fresh seafood the shop has that day, potatoes, carrots, asparagus and ducktail reeds but what makes it special is that I have a cask of 1967 Pond Water from a quaint little spot in Northern Maine. Folks will be impressed. And dessert will be Baked Maine, it is a variation - a much better dessert that the original Baked Alaska, because we use blueberry ice cream. What a feast.
I just learned that the guides are headed to Canada tomorrow, I am torn. I would love to see some of my cousins there but so many things to prepare and moose to see. I will decide in the morning.
No word yet on my residuals for the use of my stately visage on the myriad of products. I think I may require a veto going forward. I look good on quality stuff but some things for sale are just tacky. It is good to be in Maine.
Ferns /
The leaves are not changed yet but we see hints that by Sunday or Monday it will be quite beautiful. One of the early changes are in the ferns, we love the soft colors often among the green ones that have not changed. This bunch (highly technical name for more than one fern) was really pretty.
Travel Diary 12 /
We set off for the Saugus Iron Works well before dawn because we knew about the Boston area traffic and we were in the extreme southeast going to the extreme north east and the direct route through town was off limits for us - tunnels and more tunnels. So around I-95 we motored. We arrived after a 51 mile, hour and 47 minute trek. But once in the parking lot, we had breakfast and I started on this post. Plus coffee. Then things went downhill. I talked to a NPS employee at 7:30 about permission to park here until the park opened, fine he said. Restrooms were available. We went in at 9AM, opening time on the sign, nothing is open but two rangers are working outside. What time does the house open? “10 now, she said, but sometimes someone comes earlier.” Turns out there is a 10 AM sign inside not visible from the parking lot but there is one there. Back to the trailer to wait. 10 AM we return, not open. New ranger by the gate said hello to us going in, so back to her, what time is the house open? “We are closed on Monday.” I am not happy. She does tell me that they posted it on FB. Facebook! The web site says they are open in 4 separate places - everyday including specifically the VC and house. Under alerts it says “no ranger tours on 9/17” that’s it. There were four rangers at a tiny park but they could not be open on Monday. Disgusted. I shot outside photos that did include the blast furnace and that will be the extent of the Saugus Iron Works report.
So off we head to Maine. A stop along the way to see the 1700 pound chocolate moose at Len Libby Candies. Really. And I stopped? Chocolates were very good, at least the dark chocolate covered graham cracker that served as our brunch today. Then Freeport and a couple of hours at LL Bean and company and one bad coffee later we hit the road to a KOA in a tiny town called Orland, Maine to spend the night. Nice dinner in house, Acadia tomorrow, if it is open!
Cadillac’s Correct Viewpoint!
Nirvana, we are here, MAINE at last. My cool demeanor, my unfailing patience with the weeks of travel distractions and my general kindness have all contributed to allowing us to finally arrive at Maine. Ah, the joy. We are not too far along but we are in Maine. Also we stopped to see a magnificent statue of a Moose. Simply stunning. I imagine the artist won a Nobel Prize or at least an Espy for the amazing work. It ought to soon replace that guy’s statue, old whats his name who did David? What a great start to the day. Did I mention we are in Maine? Anyway we passed the exit for the area where my great uncle lived before he went “Hollywood.” People still talk about him like he was the greatest thing. Bullwinkle did this Bullwinkle did that - 75 years ago, give it a rest.
Anyhow we are headed to Acadia and I am both exhilarated and a bit anxious. I decided to hold a big picnic at the park so I can see everyone at once instead of trekking over miles of forest. Plus I can see which ex I will go out with again, I am sure they are anxious as well. The picnic is an issue right now because I just can’t quite choose what I want on the menu, culinary arts being one of my most outstanding qualities it is hard to narrow the feast to manageable scale. More on that tomorrow.
The other issue is, properly, the Moose image is everywhere on everything and I cannot figure out where my royalty checks are. I will have to look into that tomorrow as well. But tonight I shall just bask in the Maineness that surrounds me.
Seaman's Bethel /
This is a chapel near the wharf at New Bedford. Herman Melville worshiped here and used this in his most famous work. He added the ship’s prow pulpit to his novel, it was not here. The guests who come here were so disappointed that it was added years ago.
Travel Diary 11 /
Slow day today and that was good after two long days with thousands of steps. We went to an early traditional service for church today at the North Street Community Church. There were nine of us counting staff. It was well done and the later service has more people and lots of kids according to one of the men we chatted with after service. Plus we had communion and the building was constructed in 1806.
Extra plus, the father of the minister is/was a church planter who started over 30 churches with mostly bi-vocational leadership and created a company to employ some of the planters. Neat guy. We were headed to breakfast with him but the place he took us was so busy he could not stay, but we talked for 30/40 minutes before our table was ready and he headed out for the second service.
And we highly recommend Stars in Hingham, more in Eats!
We went to the original Talbots store and one of us was excited, but CJH went anyway. We also went to the headquarters of Talbots and sadly found out they did tours but not at 5:20 on Sunday night. Worked at a cafe for over an hour, did trailer preparation as we are leaving at 5 AM to try and get ahead of some of the traffic. Not much chance we will miss much. Early in tonight after a three mile hike at World’s End. It is an affiliate part of the Boston Harbor Islands.
Cadillac’s Correct Viewpoint!
We went to church today and I know they were thrilled to have a distinguished Moose such as myself in the assembly. In part because there were so few and my melodious bass certainly made the service. Singing is one of my outstanding qualities. We then had a superior breakfast simply because a grateful parishioner directed us, not the hopeless guides I am stuck with on this trip. However, the “game is afoot” (S. Holmes). I actually heard a guide talk about how to get around Boston - that is north AND one of them also mentioned Freeport. That is MAINE. Perhaps we are finally going but I am not texting my cousins, their disappointment would be overwhelming if we changed plans yet again. And they don’t have phones. Don’t they know this is 2018? Good thing I am coming to help move them ahead. Gracious what if they still eat grass? The horror.
More Moose habitat as we near Maine
Road Barely Traveled /
We had this path to ourselves and judging from the underbrush on most of it we were one of the few to use it. Nice views of the salt marsh were the reward. Plus this nice avenue of trees.
Travel Diary 10 /
Wrong! We were the very first people on Georges Island. In fact we were there before many of the rangers. The island is basically covered with a civil war era fort that held confederate prisoners including political ones like the vice-president of the Confederacy. It was a base through WWII. Took a tour but I had a migraine partially into the tour and had to leave. One of the rangers set me up in the first aid room. After a bit of recovery we headed to Boston. Went to the Boston African American NHS. We toured a school than operated from 1835 to 1855 until Massachusetts outlawed segregation. We also went into an African American Meeting house that was used from 1806 to 1897 then sold to become a synagogue and used until 1972. It was restored in 2013. Quite simple and very elegant. We ate at Fiores - an institution on Hanover Street in the Italian North End of Boston. Wonderful meal. Followed by dessert up the street at Caffe Vittoria. CJH had a cappuccino that made me jealous I just ordered a coffee. I may have to go back. Took the catamaran back to Hingham in 40 minutes. That is the way to go.
Cadillac’s Correct Viewpoint!
Of course we did not go anywhere today, again - getting used to the idea, I guess. But we did go on a boat. That was excellent. I think seafaring is in my blood, in fact it is likely one of my outstanding qualities. I should, of course, be captain, not a serf, or whatever everyone else is called. I need to get a book on the lingo so I can take over this vessel. I like the fact I get a great, hooting horn that tells everyone else to back off. Sort of like antlers for the sea. Sailing is fun. Still want to get on to Maine, but the siren call of the sea is enticing. Wonder what the captain can order for lunch? I guess anything or else he makes the cook “walk the plank.” Not sure exactly what that means but it sounds ominous like it ought to go with a ruined omelette. I really need the book on sea talk.
Quiz /
Yet a third day with light in the theme. So where have you seen this lighthouse? Don’t forget to enter in the comments section, win great prizes. (Sort of great, well, maybe Ok, at least it is definitely a prize)
Travel Diary 9 /
We arrived at the visitor center at Cape Cod National Seashore just after opening at 9:00. Two days in a row we were at the park when they opened. A record we will not add to tomorrow. Anyway, it was a spectacularly splendid day. Warm enough, sunny, breezy and just delightful. Glad we did not make this trip yesterday. We did the whole park from the first trail at Fort Hill to the last spot of land at Herring Cove Beach, both visitor centers, 8 hikes and gentle strolls on beaches, cliffs, woods and marsh trails along with six lighthouses. We got back to the trailer 13 hour after we left. Oh and dinner at Captain Frosty’s Fish and Chips in Dennis and a small ice cream at the Smuggler. As the name Frosty suggests not fine dinning by the standard of how many utensils they put at your place setting but FINE as in excellent fish, large portions, cooked well and not too expensive. Go there.
Cadillac’s Correct Viewpoint!
Massachewshoots is a sneaky state, treacherous really. As any proud graduate of the third grade can tell you when you are at the Atlantic Ocean you are east. Not in this place. They snuck a long bicep of land out into the ocean so, once again we are going east. Ugh. The nice thing about this though we were at the beach several times and I am, as you would presume, an accomplished swimmer. I placed third in the 100m four-hoof gimbal at the YOTA (Youth of the Antlers) swim club in 09. I should have had second! The guides hiked a lot so I got good naps when we were not at the ocean. And we had fish for dinner. Finally, I was starving. And it was fried the very best way to have cod. Plus some malt vinegar and horseradish sauce. I think I need another nap.
Selfie before I hit the surf. Wish I had a waterproof camera.
Another Perspective on Light /
This is mid-morning in one of the meadows of Weir’s Farm. The fields are crisscrossed with solid stone walls. There are flowers and grasses and trees that create intimate spaces to just look and breathe in the place.
Lovely Light /
Like the Roosevelt room, a wonderful place to read and listen to music. Maybe we are missing something. This is the Weir farm main room. The whole place is atmospheric - peace, tranquil and sense awakening. Easy to see why it attracted painters and other artists.
Travel Diary 8 /
Day Eight
A mixed day. We left the ocean front intending to see both New Bedford Historical Site and then Cape Cod National Seashore. Was not to be. First we had an issue with the trailer that we needed someone to look at and make an adjustment and the someone was located in Brockton -not in either location. But we dropped the trailer and headed back to New Bedford. Next, the forecast was for partial sunshine and about 75 degrees. The actual was 63 and rain. I was dressed well for the former. We did see the few open buildings at New Bedford but skipped the Whaling Museum, we had been there two or three times in the past. Enjoyed the Bethel, a seaman’s chapel and a walk in the rain on the busy wharf where they unload scallops and fish. Lots of boats. Talked to Steve who was prepping skate for lobster bait and a mechanic who worked on the heavy fishing machinery located on each vessel. We picked up the repaired trailer and went to a state park near Hingham. Very nice park. Ate and then went to a shop for internet to catch up a bit. Tomorrow, Cape Cod - and better weather we hope.
Cadillac’s Correct Viewpoint!
East, who can believe these folks. We were close enough to taste the maple syrup wafting on the breeze from Vermont and ended up along the ocean in southeast Massachusetts. Who goes east to get to Maine when you are already a mere amble to Vermont. I despair of ever seeing my cousins - not to mention ex-girlfriends. And to top off the misadventures today we spent half the time talking about whales. Worthless sea creatures who have no antlers, no hooves, an actual hole in the head and can’t play the harmonica. Well we can’t get more east, and south is the water, so North tomorrow, I think even these guides can figure that one out.
Steve getting the bait ready.
Travel Diary Seven /
Off to Connecticut. And RI and MA. We left early-ish for Weir Farm about a 60 mile drive that would take a while because of the narrow back roads. It was interesting pulling the Oliver up and around these narrow, hilly roads, rock lined lanes. Weir Farm is a National Park Service site, our 203rd! What a gorgeous place. Made even nicer by friendly and helpful rangers, Tom and Amanda in particular. It is interesting when you pull into a stone fence lined parking lot slightly wider than your trailer and find out there is only one way in and out. Thanks for your help. The farm is a gem. Stunning stone walls, red buildings, neat 18th century house, two studios and trails over the 150 or so acres. They also have an artist in residence program, go Addie! Loved this place. Then off to Roger Williams site in Providence RI. A 4.5 acre park in downtown, unit 204. Not sure how the determination is made as to what gets NPS designation. Maybe politics? No, of course not. Nice ranger at the park really knew a lot about Williams. Lunch and dinner in the trailer and settled for the night at a state park on the ocean in MA.
Cadillac’s Correct Viewpoint!
Finally we are moving and just when I think we are going to make progress we stop at, you guessed it, another house. Don’t tell my guides but this one was not too bad, nice fields and ponds. Reminds me of the Days of Ancient when we ruled this part of the world. Then commuters moved in - who can stand that. Anyway this house belonged to an artist and, of course, that being one of my outstanding qualities, I was delighted when the ranger practically begged my to put my name in for a slot in the Artist in Residence program. Modern Moose art is my forte it will be great. Oh, and guess where we ate for dinner, NO WHERE. I leave them alone and they go to the CIA - I travel and it is peanut butter. Drat. We must be in Maine by late morning tomorrow, I am confident.
Moosetastic Pond at Weir Farm
Doing Good Over Tea /
Mrs. Roosevelt was a tireless worker for causes she was passionate about and shrewd enough to accomplish things most could not. This is her preferred living space, a home created in an old factory on the property where she could live in the splendor of an amazing mansion on the Hudson. In this room on the two chairs barely seen behind the sofa, having tea, you could in 1960 see Mrs. R and JFK meeting for several hours as he sought her endorsement for the presidency, he needed her blessing. She withheld it until he agreed to champion civil rights. Because she won, America won.
“If your gift is to encourage others, be encouraging. If it is giving, give generously. If God has given you leadership ability, take the responsibility seriously. And if you have a gift for showing kindness to others, do it gladly.” Romans 12:8 NLT
Vanderbilt Lawn /
That massive house is seen from halfway across the front lawn. Really. Excess. Scores of rooms that no one would want to live in, damp, musty and huge. Most of it designed to impress guests as to the wealth one has. They did not even decorate but gave an allowance to the architect who brought back “stuff” from Europe. Not family heirlooms, not family photos or paintings, nothing personal, just old, expensive, “look what I have’ stuff. So sad.
Travel Diary Six /
Day Six
The rain from Florence has arrived. It began last night and is still raining this morning so we are glad we did the grounds at Vanderbilt Mansion yesterday. We began the morning at a neat old fashioned bakery called El Deliziosa (invented the chocolate chip cannoli) It is located in a tiny spot almost under the old railroad bridge across the Hudson. Anyway, the more they kept bringing out freshly made goodies from the back room bakery the more we lost focus. Settled on some mini pastry, cookies, biscotti and CJH’s cannoli. Then off to a tour at the Vanderbilt Mansion in heavy rain. I simply do not understand how people lived in those dark places when they could live anywhere. With his money really anywhere. Then off to the CIA, the Culinary Institute of America, for another amazing lunch, this time at the Tavern. We finished our short day with a tour of the school led by a student and she was informative and enthused.
Cadillac’s Correct Viewpoint!
So, I asked how far we would get today and found out we were going no where again. And seeing more moldy old houses. So I decided to stay here, get a nap and work on notes to my family that are missing me, I’m sure. Then I find out they ate at the CIA and a pastry shop. THAT was not part of the briefing this morning. So, I am going to bed and hope for a better outcome tomorrow.
Travel Diary Five /
We were able to leave the trailer at the campground and head north toward the tiny village of Kinderhook to Lindenwald, home of Martin Van Buren, our 8th president. You might know that if you recall your memorization of the presidents. Of course the list was a lot shorter when I learned them. The Federal style house had an added tower with inside stairs used by servants and Pres. Van Buren’s grandchildren who spent summers at the farm. The grounds are still actively farmed. The 200 plus acre farm was on the Albany to NYC Old Post Road - a very small unpaved portion is still extant in front of the house. Influential political guests often stopped by. The ranger, Ed, gave us an excellent tour. It was only Cindy and me, so a private tour. He made an obscure president from an era we know little about relevant and interesting. Yay, Ed. We also toured the grounds of the Vanderbilt mansion in Hyde Park (inside tomorrow as it is scheduled to rain) and Mrs. Roosevelt’s home, Val-Kill. Another excellent tour. Dinner at the Eveready Diner and then home.
Cindy and I split an excellent piece of strawberry-rhubarb pie from Love Apple Orchard near Kinderhook.
Cadillac’s Correct Viewpoint!
The day started with such promise, we headed North. Then as I could sense the Vermont Hills in the distance, we stopped. Not for a good reason, to visit a “president’s” home. Right like there was ever a president named Van Buren. And I could not even go in as the magnificent antlers I sport were deemed too large. A bright spot is that we stopped and had a doughnut and ice cream for lunch. Of course, we had to share. Then we were off again to yet more houses. I’ll not bore you. The worst part is that we ended up where we started. How did that happen? Will I ever get to see my cousins?
The Italian garden at the Vanderbilt Mansion.